When we arrived at the next atoll, Rangiroa we immediately headed for the dive shop Rangiroa is famous for its resident troop of dolphins which can be clearly seen frolicking in the surf in the pass through the coral into the lagoon. That afternoon we were back in the water diving a steep drop off teeming with a wondrous array of different coloured fishes. Below us a carpet of thousands of yellow fish moved rapidly back and forward seemingly in panic - were they being chased by dolphins? No just barracuda and tuna. We tried going out into the blue in the hope that our bubbles would attract the dolphins but no luck. We were not to dive with dolphins. Realising that we needed to get to Tahiti to be in time for the World ARC briefing and trips, we up anchored and left the dolphins of Rangiroa for another circumnavigation!
We approached Tahiti, guided by the tall 2000 meter plus mountains. The harbour in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti is a busy port with container ships, ferries but also has pontoons for yachts right in the heart of the city. From the tiny villages on the atolls of the Tuamotos, Papeete was bound to be a bit of a culture shock but we were surprised at how we were reluctant to shake away our memories of the atolls. From the boat we could see dual carriage ways, one way streets, pedestrian crossings and cars cars cars. Everyone of the 200,000 population seemed to be in a car daring pedestrians to cross the roads. The restaurants and cafes were full of young people and an indoor market was full of stands selling everything from tuna to pearls.
As befits the hardened circumnavigator, we first headed for the internet café to skype back home. Alejandro led the way with a conversation with his girlfriend Oneida who was wearing an immense curly wig only just shorter than his growing curls, and, through lots of whistling, his dog Zucco.
The Tahitian live round the coast of an island from which magical green valleys and ridges rise up to towering peaks. Lord of the Rings could have been filmed here! The next day saw an attempt to climb the north face of Mont Aora'i. Unfortunately this required a stiff 10k walk on roads out of town and after 5 hours of walking in the heat, exhaustion and muscle cramps forced the walk to be abandoned at 1400 meters. Walking up the narrow ridges covered with trees and bushes, in the heart of the Tahitian hills was certainly a great experience.
World ARC organised a bus tour around the island and the whole fleet of 100+ set off. The lady tour guide gave a fantastic performance, effortlessly telling us about the history of the island with a stream of jokes, and all without notes! We were taken to Discovery Bay where Cook, Wallace (the missionary) and Bligh had anchored to play their part in Tahiti's history. We were told how Tahiti was swapped with the French in return for New Zealand and left with the impression that many things in paradise may have been better before the Europeans, except for the human sacrifices! An amazing eat all you can (and we did) buffet lunch equipped us for tours of ancient religious sites, grottos and the spiritual Vaipahi gardens which explained the stages taken by the spirit after death, according to Tahitian belief. All along the way we glimpsed dramatic waterfalls at the end of deep valleys.
Despite being surrounded by beauty we had to face the reality that Free and BrEasy needed attention. Roger had become increasingly concerned about noises from the steering and after much consultation, now suspects that the bearings in one rudder need replacing. The experience of paradise is going to include a lift out and major job on the rudder. Before the parts arrive we are going to check out the island of Moorea, 20 miles to the north, to take a few days rest from Tahitian urban life. Lastly thank you to the young guitarist who entertained us for hours with virtuoso playing and singing - better than Clapton any day!