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American Spirit II - Day 25; Tour of the Embera Tribe in the Jungle; David Fox Leaves; Mike Mogavero Arrives; Tuesday, January 28, 2014



The day, as usual, began at dawn. After a quick shower, Brian brewed coffee and made his gourmet egg breakfast while David, Joel, Darlene and I watched the sun rise. We were still on the hook just off the Playita Marina. The weather was perfect, low 70s with a light breeze. This was David's last day-he would be flying out later in the day to below zero weather in Chicago.

After breakfast, Brian took Joel, Darlene and I in the dingy to the dingy dock. There was a minor hiccup with getting the engine going, but once started we motored to the dock in about 15 minutes. Today's adventure was a day trip to the Embera Indian Tribe in the Jungle of central Panama. These were a native people who still maintained the customs of their ancient past.

We met the tour at 8:00 AM, of which there were about 40 of us from the Rally. We traveled in two buses, and after an hour and a half we met several Embera at the mouth of the Sambu River. Our group was transported in three canoes, and each one had two Emberas, one who drove the canoe(they each had outboard motors), while the other stood at the bow during our 40 minute ride up the Sambu River. When we landed we were met by what our tour guide referred to as "the orchestra." This consisted of about a half-dozen male musicians, which was led by a "flutist." The orchestra also had a bass drum, an instrument made from a turtle(which had made an excellent soup), and several other percussion-like instruments.

The Embera were extremely friendly. There were about a hundred and fifty in the village, and the families generally had between two and eight children. What was most striking were the Embera smiles, especially among the children. The seemed very happy and really made us feel welcome and as if a part of their family.

Initially, we browsed their collection of handmade woodcraft's, jewelry, and baskets. The prices were reasonable and negotiable. After about twenty minutes, our tour guide acted as a translator for one of the Embaras, who proceeded to explain their culture and how their art was made. The reds, blues and yellows were breath taking, and were drawn from a variety of plants.

We were then served an excellent meal of Tilapia and Patacones, a fish and plantain fritter. For dessert was some of the best pineapple and watermelon I have ever had.

After lunch, we were treated to two dances by the Embera women while the orchestra played. The women and children danced in a circle around the very large hut. We were then invited by the tribe in a final dance. Women and children approached us, and taking our hands walked us into a circular dance which intermittently changed directions. It was very festive and a great way to end our experience.

During our stay there Darlene decided to get a tattoo. Don't panic readers, the tattoo is temporary and should disappear in 7 to 8 days.

After group photos of the Embera, we boarded our canoes and were taken to a waterfall down river. Several of our tour group stood under the falls to cool off. Finally, we canoed back to our tour buses and returned to the Playita Marina at about 4 PM, where we were met by Brian.

Paul Fox

Mike Mogavero, our 'parts mule', arrived direct from Tampa at the Tocumen international airport. Mike was brining in our new rudder post; Bruce anchor; VHF Radios; and Life Jacket. Thank you Mike. We drove around in our taxi, driver Fred, for a couple of hours going to various marine stores in Panama City, looking for the proper size and shape diesel cans and for a CQR anchor. Results were negative. In talking to our best source for a new anchor in Panama City, we were told we couldn't get one for at least 2 weeks. That being the case, we will order one and have Mike bring it with him when he returns to the boat in the Galapagos Islands.

Mike and I then moved the boat from the anchorage into the Playita Marina, slip A 19. Once tied up, we 'watered' the boat (filled the water tank), connected the two power cords to the shore power (power and AC); and hosed off the muddy Fortress Anchor on the bow.

For dinner we all walked into restaurant row, and ended up at a Mexican restaurant, where Ceviche, and assorted other local delicacies were consumed. The finale was coffee and flan.





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