Exody - Days 385-388: First place into Salvador !

Chuffed at last night's prizegiving event to win our first World ARC first for this, the longest leg. So tolerating the slatting sails and keeping the engine off during the second part of the leg from St Helena paid off! We had a total of only 17.5 engine hours for the 3650 miles since Cape Town - just two jerry cans of diesel. The event was put on by local sponsors and we all wore their purpose designed teeshirts, drank Caipirinhas, ate tasty local snack foods with shrimp and were entertained with a small live band and local Capoeira dancers - based on the martial arts.

The last night at sea on Monday 1st brought the loom of Salvador from over 50 miles as we sailed gently to make landfall in daylight under dark grey clouds. These thankfully brought us good wind for the final early morning approach with rows of skyscrapers and apartment blocks along the shoreline with beaches in front. We took the route inside the shoals passing close inshore and noticed one beach absolutely full of folk and sunshades at 07.00 hours - early morning exercise, carnival preparations ?? Crossing the finish line off the Barra light house at 8am Tuesday 2nd, we were soon rounding the 17th century Fort de Sao Marcelo to find our berth at the marina. We are just inside the large Baia de Todos-os-Santos: 1200 square kilometers of potential cruising ground for us before we head north for Fortaleza.

It was amazing to be catapulted into the sheer busy-ness and vibrancy of pre carnival preparations here in this large city. We are moored very near to the old heart - just a ride up the Elevador Lacerda - with its historic buildings and churches. It's still quite a culture shock for us even after several oceans and landfalls - this contrast to the solitude of our own 200 square miles of ocean.

We found a restaurant in the old town the first night. Live music, bands passing down the streets practising and folk everywhere moving to the music - a good atmosphere. David has been out two further evenings and witnessed the tightly packed crowds following the bands and the music - deafeningly loud from the trios electricos: fully fitted trucks with speakers,amps and performers - Glastonbury-like sound stages crawling through confined city streets. Also the pickpocket activity- he reckons a hand was in his pocket five times that he was aware of! One skipper had his iphone snatched from his hand. So all the warnings and advice given are being well heeded.

We have lunched twice at a business people's buffet place nearby- since we are in the commercial district. You pay by the weight on your plate- a great concept, good value and tasty fresh food. Local shops, chandlery and hardware have been sought out and fruit stalls found nearby. Supermarkets are unfortunately a taxi ride away and we did our first run to Perini today.

Our genoa has been packed off to Eduardo the sailmaker for 'stitch in time' repairs to reinforcement patches, sun protection etc- he will not touch it until after Carnival next week but it is in the queue! Thankfully, no other major jobs required on Exody.

The official city tour today, Friday 5th, took us on foot through the characterful Pelourinho (old town) seeing a fantastically ornate church and much activity on the streets in final carnival preparations including costume making and fitting. After two hours on foot, a most welcome air-conditioned bus took us on to view the city lake, the 2014 World Cup stadium and another church (there are supposed to be 365 in total here mostly catholic) where we were lucky to see a service in progress.

We find this large city of 3 million people really quite difficult to 'read' and navigate so I am pleased not to be trying to drive whilst here! The street pattern is the exact opposite of gridiron- winding , snaking roads everywhere, reflecting perhaps the gradual incremental development and merging of communities over the hilly terrain.


Peter (Skipper)