Saturday 30 January 2016.
Called all hands at 6am as at 7am all ARC crews to board buses to visit a village of indigenous Emberra Indians in the upper reaches of the Chargres River. The bus trip took about an hour and half at the end of which we are deposited on the banks of the Chargres river. Here some 10, long dugout canoes with outboard motors were drawn up on the bank with Emberra Indians heavily tattooed and wearing only a small brightly coloured loin cloths were awaiting us. We were given life jackets and took our places one behind the other on little wooden benches in thecanoes. The trick as I learnt to my cost was not to be right at the front where I happend to end up being the last to board the canoe. We started off up the river which started fairly sheltered with an Indian on the outboard and also one at the bow with a long pole to fend us off rocks as we were to learn later. The river opened out into a sizeable lake which with the wind against us produced small waves causing those seated at the front of the canoes to get steadily drenched! No matter as it was hot and we would eventually dry out. Once we crossed the lake the river narrowed and wound its way upstream becoming shallower and shallower with many small rapids. Inevitably some canoes grounded causing the front Indian to use his pole to try and get us off but for some it required getting out to lighten the load and helping to shove the dugout through the mini rapids against the current.
This was all very authentic stuff with thick rain forest jungle on either side and creepers now andagain hanging down from above bathing the scene in a surreal greenish light.
It was only the sound of the outboards which reminded one that we were in the 21stcentury rather than exploring the upper reaches of the darkest Amazon with Captain Forsyte in the early 1900s. After about an hour or more round a corner appeared thetops of huts of a little village.
As the canoes drew up on this isolated bank in the middle of the jungle, we were greeted by the equivalent of the village band with wooden drums and flutetype instruments. Leaving our canoes we climbed the bank to come into the central square ofthe little village. On one side was a large covered open sided communal gathering place where clearly we were to be entertained and in which were displayed all kinds of carvings and handcrafts ostensibly made by the inhabitants of the village and benches for us to sit on. Adjacent was alarge two storeyed covered open sided structure used as a communal eating place. The other two sides were bounded by family two storeyed huts. The square inevitably had two very worn goal posts on which a group of Indian children were enthusiastically playing football. To a man and woman all the Indian community were heavily tattooed and dressed in small loincloths for the men and wraparound skirts for the women and girls who were all bare breasted. We were ushered to our benches in the large covered gathering place and formally greeted by the Chief of the village. He explained, via our guide who translated, that Emberra Indians originated in the Darien area of Colombia further south. However, with drug cartel activity in the area this community had decided to move to the safety of Panamanian protection in the jungle further north. The Chief then went on to explain and to demonstate how the community labouriously made and dyed the many woven baskets of all shapes and sizes and carved wooden animals from the local bushes and trees in the jungle which all families had on display in their individual stores at the far side of the gathering place. The community then put on several traditional dances, first the men then the women and finally a group of delightfully enthusiastic young children. At the end the dancers picked out some of the ARC spectators to join in with them dancing round and round the hall.
We were then offered lunch which consisted of locally caught fish in batter in individual coconut wrappers, delicious watermelons and bananas. Our guide brought us our water. We were then invited to explore the little village perched on the hillside at the top of which was an infant school currently on holiday. 2 teachers are provided by the State. Inside we could see decorations left over from Christmas celebraations and not only Spanish phraseson the blackboard but also English ones. The views from the top of the hill showed below the river winding its wayfurther upstream while in the middle and far distance the jungle rolled on over mountain and valley as far as the eye could see.
Eventually it was time to take our leave from this very friendly little community who we gathered made a living by entertaining vistors such as ourselves about twice a week and from selling their carvings and colourful baskets. I bought one from the woman who made it who assured me it took her a month to do so. Well??! Anyway it will be a conversation piece with some provinance when entertaining back home!
The return voyage in our canoes with the river and the wind with us was very pleasant and no problems this time negotiating the rapids. On our return to Lydia we entertained our charming Norwegian friend Eivind from Spirit V with whom we had shared expedtions in Santa Marta. After a couple of Matthew's famous (or infamous!) "Rom Ponches" Eivind had to leave his half finished for which he aplogised profusely as his crew were calling him for dinner. We too rolled our way up to the marina restaurant and were just finishing when Eivind arrived with 6 "Rom Ponches" as an apology for having to leave us earlier at such short notice. ....Bed and pillow spin!
With all good wishes from the crew of Lydia, Nigel