Starblazer - 04/03/2016 – Salvador to Fortaleza via Fernando de Noronha

We decided to visit the National Park on Fernando de Noronha rather than

stop at one or two of the mainland ports on the way to Fortaleza. The trip

was a little over 650 nM and we experienced just about every condition

possible! 2 knots of current against us, 2 knots with us, wind ‘on the nose’

(from dead ahead), wind on the beam (fast), wind aft (not quite so fast),

sun, showers, rain, squalls, very cloudy and dark nights, bright moonlight –

as I said, just about every weather condition imaginable with the exception

of thunder and lightning thankfully. Overall we averaged just over 5 knots,

not good but adequate because we arrived soon after first light on Thursday

morning.



On passage the little Honda generator and ‘intelligent’ battery charger

stopped talking to each other so we had to run the main engine in neutral to

charge the batteries. We spent Thursday morning doing ‘boat jobs’, I did

the washing while John reset the charging parameters on the battery charger

and cleaned the carburettor on the generator and checked the spark plug. We

inflated the dinghy, attached the outboard and were ready to collect the

Allegro crew when the outboard would not idle. John stripped the carb 3

times before finally clearing the problem. One of the jets was blocked, of

course it had to be the one which he couldn’t unscrew! Bu the time he got

it running someone had already given Luis a lift ashore. The office was

open from 1400-1700 on Thursday afternoon, the boats clearing out had

arrived soon after 1400 to be told to return at 1600 so the friendly bar did

a good trade! We arrived at 1540, Luis was still waiting to complete his

inward clearance. Eventually all 6 boats were completed by 1700, just.



We had a group meal in the restaurant that evening, the outboard performed

faultlessly in both directions. We had arranged with Allegro to pick them

up at about 0900 to go ashore to explore the island on Friday morning.

Torrential rain rather knocked that plan on the head! The Hugur crew were

on deck raising their mainsail in swimsuits, it was that wet. Eventually

the rain eased so we all went ashore at about 1130 and caught the 1200 bus

to Sueste Bay, basically the other end of the bus route. At Sueste Bay we

entered the National Park and paid a disproportionate amount of money to be

allowed to walk on the beaches and trails in the park. O.K. the park entry

ticket is valid for 10 days however we are already paying a per person per

night charge and a daily charge for the boat so it is a very expensive place

to visit, more so if you anchor for more than 7 days when those fees

increase. It is a holiday island with numerous Pousadas, quite unlike

their Portuguese equivalents. These are in various states of decoration and

are mainly just like seaside B&Bs in the UK. The park rules are fairly

strict, you are supposed to wear a buoyancy aid when snorkelling to ensure

you float and do not tread on the reef, you are only allowed to swim in the

central area of the bays where there is no reef, we were allowed to walk

along the beach but not to clamber on the rocks etc. We did see several

baby sharks, up to 2 foot long, swimming around our feet in about 6 inches

of water. I think they were Black Tipped Reef Sharks but I heard an

American saying to his companion that he thought they were Lemon Sharks.



Saturday was a much better day, we managed to catch the 0930 bus to Sanchos

Bay. From the bus stop it is quite a long walk to the park entrance, made

more challenging by the rain which left the track very muddy and slippery.

Access to the beach is via a couple of ladders down through a cleft in the

rocks joined together by a narrow, sloping, slippery passage then about 100

steps hewn out of the rock in the open air. The bay was beautiful and I

made a sand drawing to mark the World ARC’s visit, photo to follow once we

get wi-fi in Grenada. We hadn’t taken our snorkelling equipment this time

but I’m not sure I would have been totally happy as you had to cross through

the surf line, something I have never enjoyed. Back up the steps and

ladders the boardwalk ran along to the site of an old fort dating from about

1750. We retraced our steps and set off along the path to Golfinhos Bay

(Dolphin Bay). There were a couple of park employees scanning the bay

through binoculars for dolphins and turtles but we saw none. The return

trip to the port was quick and we had a belated lunch in the restaurant.



Allegro left a couple of hours before us, we had dinner then pulled up the

anchor as soon as the SSB net had finished. We had expected the 370 miles

to Fortaleza to take about 60 hours but we hadn’t reckoned with the

favourable current. For much of the trip our focus was on slowing down – we

completed that trip with two reefs in the main and no headsail. Sunday was

probably one of the wettest days we have endured! At least, in these

latitudes, it is still warm even in the rain. We arrived in Fortaleza soon

after 0800 on Tuesday morning, with Allegro a couple of hours behind. At

one point they had dropped their sails and motored as they could motor

slower than they could sail!



The marina, which gives the name to the 5* Marina Park Hotel, is certainly

not 5* though the swimming pool, snack bar and general environment are much

better. The city looks lovely from the taxi though we were advised not to

walk from the hotel to the Central Market, less than half a mile away. The

seafront areas, at least in daylight, would appear to be quite safe.



Our stay in Fortaleza was rather short as we started this final leg of World

ARC on Thursday morning, following an interesting escape or, perhaps,

extrication of Starblazer from the ‘pontoon’.



More tomorrow.



Joyce