Lydia - Lydia's Blog. 15-21 March 2016. Nearly there.

Tuesday 15 March 2016.
Another beautiful day with twin headsails (yankee and hankee) still driving
us forward with a SE 18-20 knots from astern. After breakfast Donald sets
the staysail which has the effect of helping to funnel the wind into the
yankee and decrease the continuous rolling. Alvaro did his washing on the
after deck and amused the rest of the crew by his gyrations trying to keep
himself stable and his bucket of washing on a equally gyrating deck! At noon
our Lat 08d 59' S Long 119d 02'W with the day's run of 176 miles and 1175
miles to go with our speed 7.5 knots. It has been agreed that the morning
ARC radio round up will be brought forward 1 hour to 1100hrs but to retain
the 1800hrs roll call. Still a lumpy sea.

Wednesday 16 March 2016.
Yet another beautiful hot day with clear skies. What we would give to have
this weather even on an occasional basis in the UK let alone every day.
Today we reached a milestone of having completed 2000 miles of this 3000
mile leg. At
noon our Lat was 08d 59'S Long 121d 54' W with the day's run of 175 miles
and we are now on the Marquesas's chart. In the evening we celebrated with
several strong rum punches all round. We continue to make good progress
averaging 7-7.5 knots. On the evening radio call we hear that one of the
catamarans with a husband and wife and 3 small boys (10-6) plus a teenage
nephew had lost their main steering and were having to use an emergency
tiller. They are at least 100 miles behind us so we are unable to help.

Thursday 17 March 2016.
From midnight the wind and the seas rose to 25-30 knots which while pushing
us on our way very well gave us all the most uncomfortable and sleepless
night to date. We had to furl in the yankee as we were over canvassed and
doing over 8 knots (the yacht's maximum designed speed) on a course of 270d
pointing at the Marquesas. At 1.30am Alvaro spotted a large fishing boat
ahead all lit up but not on our AIS. As he was possibly fishing Donald spoke
to him in Spanish having failed to get a reply in English to ensure our
current course passing under 2 miles from him was not going to interfere
with his nets. This is the first ship we have seen since leaving the
Galapagos. For that matter we have not seen any aircraft even high in the
sky at night. The sea was sufficiently angry that unusually a wave broke
along the deck running all the way aft and entered Donald's cabin window
completely soaking him and his bunk and heads which were awash. On watch
myself later that night I saw much lightning from storm clouds ahead of us
but fortunately to our leeward. At noon our Lat 09d 09'S Long 124d 55'W
day's run 179 miles. Mid morning the independent generator overheated so was
shut down and Donald started the main engine to power the batteries.

Friday 18 March 2016.
Beautiful sunrise with stars before very bright and lightning coming from
the NW. The wind had dropped to 10-15 knots with so thank goodness we were
rolling less. Unlike most yachts who prudently take down their spinnakers at
sunset, Lydia with her twin headsails beamed out on spinnaker poles either
side can keep them drawing day and night so have an advantage over many
other yachts. Our course is 272d which is straight for the Marquesas. Did my
washing on the after deck in the morning which acted as a very good physical
work out. At noon our Lat 09d 26'S Long 127d 57'W with the day's noon to
noon run at a predictable 176 miles. During the morning, Donald in seeking
the cause of the generator's failure discovers that a small fuse
has blown. Today is the Skipper's 27th Wedding Anniversary marked by an
exchange of emails. Alvaro finishes Dr Zivago and I am wading through Pepy's
diaries which if you are interested in history are fascinating. Steve is
reading a History of Modern France.

Saturday 19 March 2016.
Unusually we had a bit of rain first thing in the morning but was followed
by another beautiful day of downwind Trade Wind sailing. The wind had risen
to 20 knots with consequently increasingly large following seas but with the
sun beating down almost directly overhead at midday. At noon our Lat 09d
33'S Long 130d 40'W with our day's run 169 miles and wind ESE 17 knots.
Today Lydia is the ARC radio net controller for the last time since we shall
not be taking part on the next major leg from Tahiti to Tonga and Fiji.
Donald directed that our ship's clocks and our watches to be turned back 1
hour so. We now have 505 miles to go.

Sunday 20 March 2016.
During the night/morning watches the moon was waxing so only the brightest
stars could be seen. This was helpful as with a starscope and star map it
was easier to identify the constellations that could be seen and their
principal stars with such romantic names as Sirius, Rigel, Bellatrix and
Procyon. Another beautiful day with fluffy white clouds and the sea a
deep blue. Donald solves the generator problem by replacing the dead fuse
with a small aluminium strip. At noon we were at Lat 09d 55'S Long 133d 33'W
and a day's run of 169 miles. Wind SE 10-15 knots following a course of 270d
T. As you can imagine as we have been sailing this course or thereabouts for
the last two weeksand thus have been sailing into the westering sun so the
sunsets we have witnessed have often been spectacular but alas we have never
seen the fabled "Green Flash". As I turn in for the night I note we have 270
miles to run to Hiva Oa so we should be there by Wednesday at the latest or
possibly Tuesday midday.

Monday 21 March 2016.
The first day of Spring, the Vernal Equinox with the sun being directly
overhead the Equator, and..my 72nd birthday! On my 70th I never dreamt that
I might one day have the chance to take part in this amazing voyage. Carpe
Diem.
According to the fleet's latest position reports at morning roll call we
have a slim chance of being 3rd in our Class. We have to beat Ain't Fancy a
38ft yacht sailed by a most charming German couple by about. They came 2nd
in Leg 3 from Las Perlas to
Galapagos so we very much hope we may be in with a chance. Wind remains
steady East 15 knots. At noon we were at Lat 09d 39'S Long 136d 00'W with
166 miles to our destination.


Reading through the blog entries above, I feel somehow that they are a
little too factual and anodyne and do not convey what it may feel like as
you sail across this very wide ocean day after day. Thus he remainder of
this blog is a purely personal perspective on our Pacific crossing which
experienced sailors should skip while some others may find interesting.

When I was lucky enough to be selected for this voyage in late November, I
had never done Trade Wind sailing. In all my previous sailing experience we
had at some stage met gale force winds and high seas, more often than not
going into the wind close hauled and on one or two trips, for quite some
time. I like many of my non sailing friends were concerned that in 3000
miles of the Pacific, particlarly in this "Godzilla" El Nino year we could
well meet with high seas and at the very least a gale or two or heaven
forbid a Tropical Storm. It was therefore with some trepidation I embarked
on this voyage. As it has turned out to date the most winds and high seas we
have experienced was finishing Leg 1 just before reaching the sanctury of
Santa Marta in Colombia. Here for a few hours we had winds of up to 40 knots
occasionally gusting more and high seas. Similarly leaving Santa Marta we
experienced much the same conditions (so much so that the Port Captain
refused to allow the ARC fleet to leave port for one day.) However, since we
left St Lucia until now the wind and seas have always been astern of us so
it had been "down hill" sailing all the way which is as unusual for most
sailors as it is luxurious. The challange of beating across the Pacific from
West to East
into 20 knots or more of wind and big seas would be an altogether different
experience. OK, so what has this crossing been like? Apart from the first
two or three days when we motored on and off to clear the Doldrums we have
had the SE Trade winds on our stern all the time. In fact for the last 9
days we have been flying our twin headsails and balancing staysail
continuously and as a result have caught up and in many cases overhauled
those yachts that had got ahead of us in the first week. In summary our
Pacific crossing has been some of the most pleasant and easiest sailing I
have ever experienced and contrary to what I was expecting. It explains why
at least 3 yachts have children on board, some as young as 4.

What has been a challenge on Lydia is her inevitable continual rolling 30
degrees one way and then the other which makes everything from moving around
to cooking to sleeping a challenge. The other thing I had fogotten was how
salty and sticky one's body, clothes and the sheets one sleep on become in
this very warm salt air even having the luxury of a short shower every day
or two. These minor irritants are as nothing compared to spectacular views
of the skies at night, sailing along the silvery path of the moon, watching
the first pale denizens of dawn come up with changing colours of mauve, pink
and gold before the sun in all its glory and heat arises from the eastern
ocean. Similarly as we have been continually sailing west, we have been
sailing into the golden path of the sun and admired at eventide the
unforgettably beautiful sunsets. Over a period of 3 months in a confined
space one might expect personal frictions to develop. However, I have to say
on Lydia we are a most harmonious crew albeit all with very different
personalities. I have only witnessed one slight loss of temper for which was
apologised immediately with no offence taken. Sailing these long distances
without sight of land or other ships one slips almost unconsciously into a
daily
routine and the days seem to go by without realising it. We all
stand watches 9-midnight, midnight to 3, 3 to 6 and 6 to 9. Most of those
not on watch surface about 8ish, have breakfast and come and sit or read in
the cockpit. Donald takes the 10am ARC radio roll call and the next major
event is about 1230-1pm with a beer before a healthy salad lunch cooked by
either Steve or Alvaro who are both very good cooks and enjoy it. I always
do the washing up which believe it or not I also enjoy. Donald stands watch
after lunch until 4pm when I relieve him. He takes the 6pm ARC radio roll
call after which we all assemble in the cockpit for another beer and watch
the sunset. (We bought 470 cans in Panama which may need a replen before
Tahiti!) Supper, which often comes with a tinned fruit salad pudding, is
taken in the cockpit at about 7.30 after which we prepare to go into formal
watch routines.

With the advent of reliable chartplotters where much of the
navigation is done for you, (no need for sun run sun sextant sights) and a
self steering gear where all you have to do is dial in the course you want
and simply vary it slightly as the wind dictates while lying back enjoying
the sun and sea from the centre cockpit. This is really relaxing and nothing
like sailing in blustery conditions in fog around the south coast of
England. This has all so far been so much less challenging and more
enjoyable than I expected that I am not sure whether to tell the whole truth
when friends on our return may be so admiring of our supposed courage and
adventurous spirit in facing what at first sight could be a most challenging
voyage. I would strongly recommend for deep sea sailors and others not so
experienced, going on a World ARC as something to put down on one's "Bucket
List".

With best wishes from Donald and his crew on Lydia,
Nigel