Mistral of Portsmouth - Nuka Hiva

I forgot to mention the welcome committee as we sailed into Nuka Hiva - a pod of dolphins showing us the way swimming and jumping on our bow … what a treat!

Chris and I had a jobs day after Janie and Patrick left - provisioning, cleaning, laundry and generally getting ready for the next leg of the journey. We decided to stay a couple more days in the Marquesas - the islands are unique and we wanted to make the most of them. We sailed around to Daniel’s Bay - only 5 miles west from our anchorage … another beautiful and secluded bay with towering lush green mountains - it could be a fantasy island. Any moment, I am expecting to see creatures from Lord of the Rings! I joined up with some of the fleet to do a 10k hike up to a dry waterfall - simply beautiful landscape although I was bitten a lot by the dreaded ‘nono’s’ - mosquito type biters - and this in spite of covering myself in dreadful deet. On the way back down we passed a local home where we were offered dinner and also fresh grapefruit taken from the trees … I am stocked up with grapefruits the size of footballs for our passage to the next set of islands!

Dinner was an adventure - we joined up with Maria and Oscar from LoneStar as their dinghy is much lighter and easier to manoeuvre for a wet landing onto the beach … we surfed in and got really wet! Earlier in the day, 2 dinghies had capsized trying to get into the bay. These water landings are non trivial! Dinner was delicious - a simple table for the 10 of us, fresh caught tuna with breadfruit chips and a mango and apple coleslaw. Fresh fruit for dessert - glorious! All the energy we needed to carry the tender back to the waves, leap in when we were up to our thighs in water and paddle like crazy until the water was consistently deep enough to take the engine prop. Hard to do these things with grace and elegance - beached whales come to mind as we land ourselves in the bottom of the boat!

We left the next day for a trip back to Ua Pou … it’s the closest launch pad for the Tuamotus Islands. We powered across the 25 mile channel at 8.5knots on a broad reach (in land lubber language - both sails out on the same side) and anchored in Hakahetau Bay on the north coast of the island.

I have discovered that this island was the inspiration for the Moana film … so excited to share the pictures with my grand daughter Vivienne - the expert on these matters! After a super early night, I joined others on the fleet for a hike up the mountain from the village of Hakehatau - first to the home of Manfred - unbelievably a German gentleman who makes and sells chocolate from the middle of absolutely nowhere. Next a waterfall out of a  Disney film, a plunge into the rock pool and the longest shower I have had in months underneath the waterfall - my ‘Timotei’ moment (remember that shampoo advert?)! These moments will be with me forever.

And today … finally, we set sail for the Tuamotus Islands. About 550 miles to the south west of us. 4 days and 3 nights sailing and we are on our own. Given my sleep pattern right now is 10 hours a night, not at all sure how I am going to cope with 3 hour watches? Adrenalin and black coffee will keep me going. Hoping for fair winds and good fishing!

Magical waterfall in Ua Pou

Looking up, Daniels Bay