We arrived at Atuona on Hiva Oa yesterday afternoon and were given leis of fresh flowers, which smell gorgeous. The scenery is spectacular, with lush, flowery valleys and high volcanic ridges. Met up with some fellow travellers last night and had a meal out. We were served by a Mahu. Mahu are males raised as girls and continue to live their lives as women. They are part of the culture in Polynesia, and usually serve food in restaurants or work in hotels or boutiques. We were able to buy French bread and fresh lychees, avocado and mango from a little hut by the dock this morning - a rare treat. We have also found Sandra, who does laundry, so we are pretty sorted. Everything is very expensive here, as in French Polynesia as a whole.
We are sightseeing tomorrow, as rather shattered today. This island is said to have the most striking archaelogical sites in French Polynesia. It is also the resting place of Gauguin and Jacques Brel, both of whom have very simple graves in a cemetery on the hillside. Their graves are kept decorated with fresh flowers, which are found in abundance here.
Will report back further tomorrow
Apae (goodbye in Marquesan, which is a separate language to rest of Polynesia)
Michael, Jackie & Kerry
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