This will be our last log entry for some time as we are due to arrive in Tahiti in a few hours and if this landfall emulates most of the previous arrivals I will be unable to complete any joined up writing for some time.!!!
As previously reported we arrived in Hiva Oa in the early hours of 28th March. We had to drop anchor and use the dingy to get ashore. First thing that morning (6 am) we headed for the Gendarmerie to clear immigration and have our passports stamped. They clearly do not have many visitors to the Island as it was a slow process and all our passports were photocopied and meticulously inspected. The island however was absolutely beautiful and when we stepped on land we were all warmly greeted by Mandy of World ARC who put a garland of highly scented flowers around our necks. ( It was a bit girly, but heh...... when in Rome) The views along the coast road to the town were stunning and the town was charming. Everywhere you looked there were marvellous flowering plants similar to the Spanish flora but more lush and vivid or perhaps it was our perception from the long passage at sea with just its blues and greys. We went to the supermarket to get some fresh provisions, and although the shelves were well stocked, everything was very expensive. Most things are imported and the only local produce was some of the fruits so we stocked up on just fresh produce, eggs and milk. Fortunately our stores and freezer were still well stocked from the provisioning at Panama and St Lucia We set sail again later that day as the anchorage at Hiva Oa was bumpy and offered little protection.
The adjacent Island, just 10 nm to the west, is called Tahuata and we found a stunning bay to drop anchor. This was very sheltered and again quite beautiful and we had it to ourselves. There was just a tiny village by the waterside and we had a relaxing afternoon swimming, snorkelling in the warm clear waters and the infamous Kasuje deck chairs took some heavy wear. It was the perfect place to open our bottle of champagne to celebrate the crossing of the big blue Pacific Ocean.
At larks fart the next morning, nursing hangovers, we set sail for the Tuamotus Islands some 450 nm south west and enjoyed a cracking sail before reaching the first and most northerly atoll named Takaroa. It is quite impossible with my limited prose, to adequately describe these atoll islands, and the people living there. They are quite unique and sustain isolated communities quite different to anywhere else on our planet. (Just try and imagine the perfect "Robinson Crusoe" film set with a dose of "LOST"). The structure of the atolls is basically circular in land mass made entirely of coral, covered in palm trees, with a central lagoon. The coral land is at its widest a mere 50m wide and all life is contained on this circular strip. The circles can be 30 nm in diameter. The few people who live there do so in shanty villages living on fish , black pearl cultivation and handouts from the French Government, via the E.U. and therefore us!!! The locals all look very well on it though, huge men and women with plenty of kids. (I guess there's little else to do). We were lead to believe that the central lagoons were perfect for snorkelling etc but we found them to be quite bumpy and a challenge to swim against the wind and currents. We therefore made for a second destination the island of Apataki and found this very similar with difficult entry and exit passes which took all our concentration. So after a crew team talk we have decided to leave these islands and head for the delights of Tahiti as a good hotel, a Guinness bar, restaurant and a couple of days R& R, are, we feel well deserved, before our flights to the UK on Friday.
I leave you, with the sunrise over Hiva Oa.
Thanks to my crew on this leg, and for your many emails, news from home and support.
Kindest Regards
Skipper Steve, Bruce, Angela and Ruby.