Monday 31.3.2008 12 noon
We leave Hanamoenoa Bay (yesterday) at 6.45am - there’s little wind so we motor-sail across to Ua-Pou, arriving on the South East coast at about 4.30pm. This is one of the most dramatic coastlines we have ever seen. There are 12 extinct volcanoes on this island, and we look in awe at these huge white pinnacles - the highest 1200 metres – most of which are covered in cloud. There is multi-coloured strata of volcanic rock - one island pinnacle on the west coast reminds us of St Kilda and there are a few tiny bays with grey volcanic beaches. Our bay of choice is Hakahetau . As we approach we watch tuna jumping and we’re joined briefly by a solitary little dolphin who plays with the bow. We drop anchor just as the sun is sinking into the horizon and eat aboard before dinghying over to Tramontana for drinks and a planning session. It’s agreed that we’ll head for Nuka Hiva for a couple of nights to re-vital, explore the island, then head south for the Tuamotos. It’s an early night as we’re all jiggered! There’s a few heavy downpours during the night and when we wake up the sea is brown, and very rolly! As we’re sitting having a morning coffee, Stewy tells Annie he’s seen someone collecting something – maybe shells(!) , along the shore. Annie’s sussing out how she can land there to go on a hunt when we all hear, then see, a landslide –falling right on the route !– we’ll shell hunt somewhere else! We decide to head ashore for bread but just as we’re leaving the local gendarmerie pull up alongside. As it’s now very rolly it’s all hands on deck to fend and float with fenders until they’ve checked our documents . There are no problems( other than them bouncing off our hull ! ) and once they know all is in order we head ashore while they move on to Tramontana. Phil and Fay join us ashore and we meander through this very pretty little village which has a scattering of houses on each side of a river. Stewy meets 2 brothers (the minister’s sons) who take him to their cousin’s shop to buy baguettes and apple pies. They take Stewy back to their house where they offer him a wee puff of whacky (which he declines!- the minister’s sons too!) and give him a tour of their “plantation”. The brothers give Stewy fruit, and fish from their freezer, and offer to take him fishing. Stewy promises to send them photos ( and fishing tackle from Northumberland!) as soon as he gets home. Meanwhile the rest of us hike up the hill towards the waterfall. We come across what appears to be the island’s local village hall, the modern day equivalent of the ancient meeting places that appear to be scattered all over these islands from times of much bigger populations.. As the road climbs, members of the team begin to fall away until it’s just Ronnie and Annie who make it up to the waterfall. Just as they get there, there is a torrential downpour and the path itself becomes a river. On the way there are horses, beehives, parrots , trees laden with mangoes, breadfruit, guava ,limes, avocado, banana, pamplemousse and other bits and pieces we’re unable to identify! This really is an island paradise. We all meet up again in the village ( it’s hard not to ! ) then walk round the other side of the river, past the local church and a school where there’s music playing. The children are practising traditional dancing which reminds Fay of Maouri traditions at home in New Zealand. Some of the girls are making head-dresses from leaves and they chat and let us take their photos. Stewy gets a few good shots of some pretty stunning looking local girls who are hanging out at the pier - funnily enough they’re the brother’s cousins too! We head back to the boat, then up anchor and head For Nuka Hiva!