Saturday 29th March
FATU HIVA
The Bay of Virgins, where we arrived at about 8 am, is described by Jimmy Cornell (The founder of ARC and World Cruising Club) as the most beautiful anchorage in the South Pacific! It is certainly pretty magnificent, but unfortunately we didn't see it at its very best as it was mainly cloudy with occasional rain whilst we were there.
There are only two villages on the island and the others set off to walk to the other one on a long 4-hour trek with some steep climbs! I had a quick look round the village and got roped into lifting an outrigger canoe up the slipway when I should have refused and as I write this am suffering the inevitable back pain!
We had bumped into K8 the day before and knew they were heading for the same spot, so when they arrived I invited them for dinner. Adrian's wife, Jen, was unwell so they didn't come, but we had a good evening with avid, Nick and Rosie.
JB: We arrived at Hanavave Bay first thing in the morning after a gentle overnight sail. I feel it incumbent upon me to explain to you dear readers that the phallic skyline of the Bay, which was breathtaking, (see photo) caused it to be called the "Baie des Verges" (Bay of Penises). However, apparently the missionaries, upon their arrival, were aghast and slipped in an "i" and renamed it the "Baie des Vierges" (Bay of Virgins). Anyway, enough history! We all stood at the bow looking at the verdant landscape in awe. Finally, having snapped out of our reverie, the island's green lusciousness lured us in, and having packed some lunch, Malcs, Linds, Barry and I embarked on a trek to the other village on the island; a village called Omoa, 17km south of Hanavave. The guide book advised that this walk would take 4 hours and involved sharp inclines.
One hour in to the walk and still having to walk uphill, Malcs decided to turn back and Linds went back to the boat with him. Barry and I agreed to press on not wanting to be defeated. We kept reassuring ourselves that at the next bend in the meandering dirt track we would be at the top!
Barry: 2 and a half hours later, with a serious case of the bends, we finally reached the top of the pass. Our efforts were rewarded with an amazing view of the interior of the island. A craggy basalt curtain towering 800 metres above sea level surrounded us, encircling lush green valleys that would give Ireland a run for it's money in the "forty shades of green" category. Just then a 4x4 came meandering around the bend, they were on their way to a birthday party in Hanavave. When they heard that we were walking to Omoa one gnarly looking bloke in the back said that we still had 4-hours to walk but the view would be worth it. The others, including a couple of pretty local girls, tried to get us to go with them to the party, which I would gladly have done, but JB had that determined (I've started so I intend to finish) look on her face, so on we trekked. The driver said that he would see us in 3 hours on his way back to Omoa and true to his word we were still walking 3 hours later when he caught up with us. He offered us a lift, which we took despite JB having another of those determined (I've started so I intend to finish) look on her face. We climbed aboard and joined Paulo, his wife, daughter and two grandchildren for the 20-minute drive down to Omoa and some fantastic Marquesan hospitality. I asked Paulo whether it would be possible to hire a boat to take us back to Hanavave, it turned out that he had a boat himself and offered to take us back for CFP 6,000. With this deal struck we headed back to their house and were invited to join his extended family for their evening meal. Omoa was a beautiful little village; dominated by a small church with a red roof, white façade and slender spire. Both villages are located in deep valleys that run down to beaches of black volcanic sand. Beside each beach is a natural football pitch, given pride of place on the only flat ground on the island. It turned out that there was a local derby on the next day with Hanavave taking on their only neighbours Omoa. We would be definitely cheering for Omoa after our great time with Paulo and his family. When it came to leave, Paulo suggested that he drive us back instead of using the boat as it would be easier than launching the boat. The trip by car was usually CFP15,000, but he offered to take us back for the price of the boat trip. So off we went with 6 of his family in tow for the 30-minute roller-coaster ride back to Hanavave.
What a truly amazing experience! JB: I concur!
Sunday 30th March
ON OUR WAY AGAIN
Left Fatu Hiva about 13:00 after the others had been ashore to watch the football match between the 2 villages and sailed the 130 nm to Nuka Hiva overnight.
Monday 31st March
NUKA HIVA
Although Malcy is a lot better he still is suffering and we went along to the hospital soon after arriving mid-morning to get his sample analysed. The doctor and nurse were very helpful, both spoke good English and generally gave Malcy a good going over, including a blood sample, which 2 hours later they declared was fine!
In the meantime we went to the only restaurant nearby that is open to find it full of Blue Water Rally people some of whom we chatted to including our former arch enemy whose table Malcy and Co nicked at the Red Mangrove in Galapagos, she is actually very nice and the Blue water mob are easy to get on with!
One of the unusual customs in this area is that the 3rd son is brought up as a woman, purely it seems for sexist reasons so he can help with the housework, but the 3rd son can marry and have children, but it is bizarre to see blokes dressed as women as one of the waiters was in the restaurant. Needless to say (being rather naïve) I thought he was a woman and it had to be pointed out to me!
We booked the same restaurant for dinner although BWR had a dog roast (as Malcy calls it, actually a hog roast) and bumped into Ian, Annie and Stewart from Just Do It.
Tuesday 1st April
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