Another uniquely beautiful Polynesian Island
One of the amazing things about this small group of closely knit islands is how different they are from each other. Yet what characterises them all are charming, friendly people, stunning scenery and a wonderfully mild climate. In terms of physical size and population, Ua Pou is probably the third largest of the Marquesas, and is in many ways the most spectacular island we have visited so far. We left Nuku Hiva bound for Hakahau Bay - a pleasant, down-wind sail of about 24 miles. We made excellent progress, with Will at the helm, passing Northern Sky on the way. It was good to catch up with them, and, despite continuing engine problems (dirty fuel again) they were in good spirits as they headed up to take our place in Nuku Hiva. When we arrived, there was something about the small harbour at Hakahau Bay which the skipper did not like - a combination of the wind, the swell and the restricted room. It was too rough to anchor comfortably outside the breakwater, and although there was room to anchor next to the only other yacht, we would have been close to a lee shore and probably restricting the access to the jetty. So we turned away and anchored in Hakahetau Bay four miles to the west. This little village with its brand-new but tiny harbour is the old capital of Ua Pou. We could not land that afternoon due to the continuing swell, so relaxed on the boat, admiring the slender rock peaks that dominated the skyline, with the jungle between them and the tiny village with its red-roofed church. When we arrived, a little J-109 was anchored in the bay. He left for Papeete shortly afterwards, no doubt for a fast but not too comfortable passage! And as the evening drew in, our friends on Williwaw arrived to anchor nearby. It was not a very calm anchorage, but we slept well. Next morning after breakfast, and following Williwaw's successful landing, we clambered into the dinghy and joined them. Aided by Eric's interpretation, the friendly policewoman told us how boring life was for her in her little bare office, which we then discovered she shared with the local Mayor, before arranged for us to get some fruit and then, after we had discovered the small but well-stocked village shop and an even smaller museum, she and her husband and very small baby drove us up the road to a small track through the jungle which led to a magnificent waterfall, with a fresh-water pool beneath it.
We collected fresh bread from the little shop, before Eric's skill-full negotiation led to us acquiring two magnificent boxes of fruit and a large bag of vegetables, which we shared with Williwaw. The total cost of this was a bottle of Jack Daniels and 1000 Polynesian francs (about £8), and a packet of crayons! The mangoes are delicious, and no doubt the rest will be as well. With which, we set off back to Hakahau, this time anchoring successfully in mid-afternoon.
Quasar visited Hakahau en-route for the Tuamotus and, on JB's recommendation, we walked up the hill for dinner at the Pension Pukuee. Run by a French ex-soldier, Jerome, (Infantrie de Marine) and his delightful wife (who does the cooking), the Pension, halfway up the hill, offers magnificent views over the harbour and the valley with its capital town of 1300 inhabitants. Its comfortable verandah is surrounded by wonderful flowers, and we enjoyed a few beers before settling down to what some of us felt was the best meal we have eaten on this trip. Shrimps cooked in coconut, tuna tartare in pamplemoose, deep-fried Groupa in batter, breadfruit and all sorts of other local delicacies made it a memorable feast, and there was a decent bottle of French Bordeaux to go with it. And we all made room for the home-made mango sorbet and ice-cream. In true pension style, our hosts ate with us, and using a mixture of the Skipper's halting French and our host's much better English, we were told all sorts of things of the Island, its people and Jerome and his wife. Apparently the capital moved to Hakahau after the Missionaries were told to go and live in this waterless valley. They established a dispensary and a church, and probably also because there is a much better anchorage, soon the islanders began to move into the valley. So the town is relatively modern, with a proper harbour wall, a decent jetty for the local supply ship and a brand-new power station. As for Jerome, in his twenty-five years of service, he saw action in Chad, New Caledonia and various parts of Africa before retiring to the Pacific and setting up as a restauranteur, local guide, tattooist, and general fixer of everything. I could not think of a better and more comfortable place to spend a relaxing week or two (with a small tattoo on the side (or back) - and there is a small but decent airport in Ua Pou, so getting here should not be too much of a problem!
So a big thank you to Eric and Grazyna of Williwaw for negotiating and sharing the fruit and veg, and, especially to JB, to Quasar for making such a great recommendation in Hakahau.
We are all well and should be en-route to Tahuata after an early supper this evening.
Best wishes from us all,
James, Chris & Will
Yacht Cleone
Hakahau
Ua Pou
Marquesas