Thursday 10th April
After a slow start yesterday we swim off the back of the boat, then go for a lovely lunch ashore before waving our fond farewells to Mr and Mrs Haggarty – Mrs Haggarty looking particularly swell in the Panama hat being sent home for Tommy. Early night for all.
We’re up early this morning refreshed. The boat gets a good clean – Ian on the stern , Annie down below , and Stewy repairing the bilge pump – at one point getting stuck under the table ; he (covered in suntan lotion) slides between the table and the seat, and has a heck of a sprachle trying to get back out, not helped by Annie’s hysterical laughter!
After we’re finished we’re all getting showered and planning the day when, around mid-day, Annie gets a phone call that her Dad has had a heart attack. It’s a huge shock, especially being so far away, and so we immediately start trying to figure out a route home. Ashore we meet a local gentleman, Manahee, who makes a few phone calls and then gets his driver to run Annie to the Air Tahiti office to organise a flight off the island tomorrow. Unfortunately, they can’t help with ongoing travel arrangements We thank everyone very much for going out of their way to help. Manahee explains that it is their custom to always help visitors to their island whenever they can. We have no internet access, nor are there any internet cafes, so later Ian phones Julie who, most efficiently and in no time at all, manages to organise the rest of the flights needed for Annie to get home asap.
Friday 11th April – Monday 14th April
Ian runs Annie to the airport in the dinghy,…. and now there’s only 2…… Ian and Stewy- who don’t do logs ……..so the rest is a (very rough!) quick resume as dictated …!!!!
Friday night – (surprise, surprise!) the boys ( later accompanied by Phil and Fay) ,get involved in a local session. They make friends with Manahee and some other locals, and are served free food and beers. Manahee invites them to his home at the other end of the Atoll the next day. Phil and Fay have decided to head off tomorrow for Bora Bora so will not be joining them.
Saturday 12th April
After saying farewell to Phil and Fay on Tramontana , Ian and Stewy sail to the bottom pass on Fakarava. They arrive at the Tamakohua pass at 4pm and go ashore asap for a beer in the dive centre. A large motor yacht arrives in the bay –“ Laurel”. It’s a beautiful spot – they explore the old deserted village and meet up with Manahee who invites them for dinner. Dinner turns out to be dorado, beautifully marinated and cooked, rum in coconut milk ( in the coconut) and an informative evening learning from Manahee all about the culture and lifestyle of the islands. Manahee’s house is unique and arty, and as he has an adjoining pension – a special place to visit if anyone ever takes a notion for venturing out this way….paradise indeed…
The following morning the wind has built up to a strong North Easterly – this alters the plans to exit by the southern pass so it’s going to be a motor back up to the top .Lifting the anchor it’s discovered they’re wrapped round a coral head. Daniel from Laurel kindly assists by diving down and within half an hour it’s free. Grateful and relieved, Jus Do It 3 leaves at 8am heading for Toau. Exiting the Garuae (north ) pass of Fakarava is a completely different story to what it was coming in….. there are huge over-falls spreading at least 1.5 miles out to sea. Ian and Stewy try to stay on the eastern side to avoid the worst , but it’s a nerve-wracking exit, and they’re still towing the outboard and dinghy! Once clear, the sails are hoisted and they’re heading NW to Toau with the intention of entering by the Otugi pass. Approaching, they see more huge over-falls so decide to head for the Amyot ( leeward) pass instead. It’s now a race to get there before sundown - a race they don’t win. Unfortunately, by the time they get there it’s dark and extremely difficult to see the leading lights. The pass is called the false pass as it leads into an enclosed , sheltered basin, rather than the atoll itself. Just as the 2 (by now exhausted) sailors have decided it’s too risky and they’re going to have to head out to open sea, they see flashing torch-lights ahead . Two local fishermen have noticed their dilemma and have come out in their small wooden boat to guide them in - guardian angels! With great relief they are led safely into the anchorage, where with thanks they enjoy a drink and food before tumbling into their bunks.
Tuesday 15th April
Ian and Stewy wake up in another paradise. They go ashore to thank the men who helped them last-night, and while there are introduced to the family – the only one who lives on this motu (islet- part of the atoll). The family run a little business cooking for passing boats and they invite Ian and Stewy to join them and the other 2 boats in the bay for their evening meal. The day is spent exploring the island, chatting to one of the daughters who tells them about their local customs, snorkelling off the beach with lots of baby sharks, collecting coconuts and generally enjoying another lovely day in paradise! They see the pigs being fed local lobsters (varo) and coconuts. Everyone, including the family, eats together at night and they all enjoy a meal of local clams, sushi, seafood salad, chicken, rice and wine. It’s a jovial night , and,( seeing how he appreciates his food! ),Stewy is given a takeaway of coconut fish and coconut bread for tomorrow.
Wednesday 16th April
The crew set off for their next island, Apataki ,at 8am. There’s still a bit of bother with the windlass – the clutch seems to be slipping. They’re heading for the Pakaka pass – sailing on a broad reach in light airs all the way. The plan is to stop in the village of Niutahi but the anchorage does not look good , and is on a lee shore, so they press on to the Tehere pass, anchoring in the shelter of Roto Ave” motu”. While entering ,Ian and Stewy notice a vibration in the prop – what‘s causing this? On arrival, they meet another Arc boat, Andante of Mersey, who have just arrived from the Marquesas (their first landfall in the Tuamotos) and join them for sundowners before retiring for the night.
Thursday 17th April
Ian starts off the day by cooking a good big breakfast ( while the calorie counter’s away….), then dives under the boat to see if he can find anything fouling the prop. There’s nothing there and it all looks ok. Ashore for an explore, snorkel off the beach – (crystal clear – lots of colourful fish – no sharks – perfect), machete some coconuts then aboard for Stewy’s roast lamb – sounds like it’s been a good food day!
Friday 18th April
The lads are up 3.30/4pm – not quite sure what the right time is – and exit the pass around 5am - a good exit - heading now for Rangiroa. There’s absolutely no wind,it’s flat calm and roasting hot. They put the tent up and motor all the way, arriving at Tiputa pass at 4pm - still noting a vibration from the prop. This pass is notorious for it’s rapid current which can reach up to 8-10 knots. Skipper is a bit nervous as a consequence of the preceeding days .However, by good fortune rather than good planning, it’s a perfect entrance. Two hours later, Ian and Stewy appreciate how lucky they’ve been when they go ashore for a beer in a little restaurant overlooking the pass – it’s a surging , boilng , bubbling, rapid torrent of water …. they see what they missed….!
There are 27 boats at anchor when they arrive – mostly Blue Water and a few Arc - it’s the biggest of the Atolls (and the 2nd largest in the world) and appears to have more facilities, regular flights and a more developed (in a very basic sense) infrastructure. Ian and Stewy meet up with Roger from Branec who gives them some local info before they go for cocktails to the Kia Ora Hotel Resort. It’s about £6 a beer – they won’t be getting drunk here tonight!
Saturday 19th – Monday 21st April.
Stewy’s up with a spring in his step as he’s off to Papeete to meet Avril ,who arrives tonight. Ian is going to be home alone for 2 days ….unheard of! They get a few jobs done then Ian drops Stewy at the airport in the taxi ,……. and then there was one …….!
Ian has a quiet 24 hours – polishes, cleans and mends, resting in the evenings with a sundowner and his Yachting World. Ahhhhhh…..
Monday morning his eyes open wide with delight as he sees Tallulah Ruby approaching the anchorage – he’ll have pals to play with now! The day is taken up with catching up, snorkelling, swimming, lunch and drinks. Hire car for diesel runs, then off to the airport to collect Stewy and Avril. Dinner with Tallulah Ruby at night at the restaurant by the pass.
Tuesday 22nd April
Lots of jobs done aboard in the morning, then vittling and more diesel by car ashore. Ian and Stewy take Avril for her first ever snorkel which she absolutely loves . Then it’s Ian’s turn to be run to the airport as he’s off to Papeete to meet Annie .
Wednesday 23rd April
Annie gets in very early in the morning, and after a night in the Intercontinental Hotel Resort, it’s a quick spin round Papeete to do a fedex mail, buy contact adhesive (at the Tahitian equivilant of B&Q) and meet the marina manager to arrange for the boat to be lifted, sails repaired etc. Next it’s a flight back to Rangiroa where Stewy and Avril pick up Ian and Annie at the airport . We then enjoy a whistle-stop tour round the island when we bump into Strega and Tallulah Brian, then eat later at the pass restaurant. No menu,great food; seafood salad, lamb tagine and coconut flan – delicious!
Thursday 24th April
We decide to stay here another day – we swim and snorkel off the shore, lunch in a beachside bar, then do a drift snorkel through the pass in company with Tallulah Ruby. We tie ropes (to hang on to) on to the dinghies( which are also tied together) and drift through with the current. The water is beautifully clear and we see coral, fish, sharks and the most enormous manta ray any of us has ever seen. It’s HUGE , bigger than any of us each way, black and white, big gills, WOW! We have Tallulah Ruby ashore for sundowners , dinner goes out the window, Avril, then Annie , peel off to bed and leave them to it!
Friday 25th April
Up and away at 8am heading for Tikehau, in company with Tallulah Ruby. We leave by the Northern pass – water so clear we can see 100 foot down. Light airs so we goosewing the sails and motorsail. It’s nice and gentle for Avril’s first sail, but extremely hot so we all take turns having a wee nap. There’s lots of birdlife on these islands and we see herons, sand-pipers, red footed boobys, noddies, frigates, white terns,sooty terns and mask (crested ) terns to name a few. We arrive in Tikehau pass at 2pm and are joined by dolphins who play around us as we motor in. We make our way in warily – we’re down to one metre below the keel – Annie keeps a look out from the bow for stray coral heads. There’s one other boat – a French ketch – in the anchorage. Tallulah Ruby follow us in close behind. It’s another idyllic spot – what looks like another pearl farm out on the reef and a few buildings ashore. We decide to BBQ , and invite Akoya,( another Arc boat ) who have also just arrived. We find a makeshift table beside an abandoned boat and set up camp. Avril and Annie have a little explore through the palm trees and abandoned buildings – coconuts everywhere! Everyone gathers ashore bringing their various offerings ;booze, salads, breads and chicken (clearly no-one’s having any luck fishing!) but Akoya (an Italian boat) wins hands down with their most delicious, freshly home made pizza. Pizza delivery in the Tuamotos –that must be a first and it doesn’t get better than this! After we’ve all eaten we have a bonfire and sit round enjoying and appreciating…. everything. A great night.
Saturday 26th April
A relaxing morning, Akoya are going drift diving in the pass and invite us to join them – Ian and Annie drop Avril and Stewy ashore then head to the pass . There’s a strong current but the water is cloudy so not much to be seen, so they head off to another motu, anchor the dinghy and walk all the way round. This place is stunningly beautiful; the colours of the sea, sky and vegetation are so vivid. We have a few shell finds on the way round and watch fish and eels in the shallows, then motor onto a reef to snorkel around and over the coral , fish and black tipped sharks. Stewy and Avril have walked all around their motu too, appreciating the unspoilt beauty of this special place. They get a lift back to the boat with Jose’ while Ian and Annie have a glass of wine on Tallulah Ruby, then back to JDI3 . We have lunch then Avril gets fishing – she means business! We decide another BBQ is required – Paul , Ian and Mario from Akoya go and organise to buy fish from the couple who live on the little house ashore. Far Out arrive in the anchorage and they also come to join in. We all rendez-vous ashore in the same spot at about 4pm. Annie decorates the table with flowers ,wood is gathered for the fire, and another splendid spread appears. Maria invites the local family to join us but although they are very happy and friendly they don’t come along. There’s now a total of 19 of us from the 4 Arc boats. It’s a really cheery, lively night – a good mix of Spanish , Danish, Italian, South African, English and Scottish!
Sunday 27th April
Up at dawn. Avril’s hard at the fishing again – this time there’s success – she catches her first fish! It’s a good size and will be centre table at lunchtime. We have 7 sharks round the boat by this time – they seem to appear from nowhere – no swimming off the back of the boat today! Far Out, Jens, Eve and Victoria call round with a promised failsafe seasick remedy (which hopefully will not be required!) and a lost fork ,and stop for a drink . Jens gives Ian some more advice re sail choices for his new boat – now we’re further away from making decisions than ever! Far Out then leave the anchorage to cross the atoll to the village. It’s so lovely here, and as we’re right by the pass and need to leave early in the morning we decide to stay put. We all go ashore to another motu to explore somewhere new. Avril and Annie sit in the shallows trying to catch the little fish swimming round them for bait. Paul drops by on his dinghy – he just tried a snorkel out on the reef but jumped back into the dinghy fast when he saw the size of the sharks starting to circle! We all motor through the lagoon and drift snorkel back seeing grouper, puffer fish and lots of very colourful coral and fish. Back to the boat for lunch – we’re starving. Paul pops over and invites us for sundowners. Avril gets the Sunday dinner on – New Zealand lamb! We enjoy a few G&Ts with the Tallulah Rubians and agree to leave together at 7am tomorrow for Papeete. We watch a storm in the distance – a big black cloud with lightening, and of course this sparks off tales of high seas and adventure…! Our dear friends kindly gift us some mint sauce and we return to JDI3 to enjoy our first Sunday dinner in quite a while! Avril has done us proud- it’s a veritable feast washed down by red wine, after which we all toddle off to bed in preparation for our early start . 2am… a rude awakening by strengthening winds and a jarring anchor chain. The wind has swung round 120 degrees to the E/SE – when we look out we’re surrounded by a big black cloud and building seas blowing straight off the lagoon and blowing us onto a lee shore through a gap in the reef. All 4 boats are up - deck lights on ,checking anchors and planning possible exits. Tallulah Ruby records 38 knots of wind. There’s lightening all around , torrential rain and howling squalls. Thankfully all the anchors hold fast. We’re up for 1.5-2 hours until it abates, then we set the anchor alarm and get back to bed.
Monday 28th April
Up 6.30, quick breakfast and out through the pass behind Tallulah Ruby as planned, just after 7am.There’s a strong tide pushing us out and over-falls at the mouth as we motor carefully through another mini Corry Vreckan.
It’s very overcast and drizzling so we take this as confirmation that it’s the right time to leave these most beautiful of islands that we’re all so loath to say goodbye
to .There’s no wind but we hoist the main and set course 195’ heading straight to Papeete, Tahiti. Fishing competition with TL begins 7.30am. The losers to buy the first round at the other end. It’s flat calm the whole day. TL report a whale sighting but they’ve gone before we get there. Akoya passes mid afternoon and Dario tells Stewy on the VHF that they’ve just lost their line to a Marlin. Not even a bite for JDI3 or TL. We motor sail throughout the night , 4 hour shifts each couple. It’s clear and starry and we keep an eye on lightening in the distance.