It's lovely, but terribly expensive!
We will have been in Bora Bora for 9 days when we leave tomorrow, and despite its joys, we will be glad to leave. It has had almost everything: wonderful snorkeling; glorious views; balmy weather (actually it was not always, but more of that later); friendly people and exotic locations. But it is all a bit spoilt by the ridiculous prices of everything from beer to taxis.
After the Pear Regatta we moved to a deep but comfortable anchorage just off the mis-named Bora Bora Yacht Club, which is not actually a yacht club at all. And moreover, it was sort of closed. This meant that for the first few days there were no very expensive drinks available, and no other facilities. We chose to anchor rather than pick up a mooring, and hefted out 80 metres of chain, lying comfortably amongst the World ARC fleet. The first couple of days we relaxed whilst those of the fleet who had not been on the Pearl Regatta caught up with us. Then it was into the swing of the place - if you can keep up with it. snorkeling the reefs alive with rays and brightly coloured fish, climbing the mountain through the very steep, wet and slippery jungle path - extremely strenuous and sweaty but worth it for the staggering views from the top - and a hire-car trip round the main island. This was slightly hazardous as the island is very small, and before we had been able to orientate ourselves, we had arrived back at the place we had started. And, since there is only one road, this is all too easy. However, nothing daunted we set off again. This time we were more cautious. We stopped and asked our way, and eventually found the path which led to one of the 2nd World War forts. After Pearl Harbour, the Americans created a huge logistic base in Bora Bora, with tons of fuel and other stores. To protect these goodies, they garrisoned the island generously with 6000 or so GIs, and constructed 4 gun emplacements, each with two 7" coastal defence guns. Reputedly the depot was little used, the guns never fired in anger and the GIs posted here enjoyed the delights of Bora Bora untroubled by the Japanese - or anyone else for the matter of that. Perhaps this was just as well. Even in the dark days of 1943, vintage 1906 guns cannot have been state-of-the-art pieces, and the Japanese battleships that roamed the Pacific would have easily outgunned them. And of course we visited the famous Bloody Mary's with friends from Jus'doit, drinking, of course, very good (and needless to say, very expensive) Bloody Mary's, and celebrated Annie's birthday with lunch at the stunning (and very expensive) Bora Bora Hotel.
Owing to a challenging weather forecast, a delay to the start of the next leg was announced. The Yacht Club anchorage is exposed to the West, where the weather was due to come from. So the fleet scattered. We took Cleone to a lonely mooring opposite the town quay and in the lee of an island. Here we veered out all 100m of our main anchor chain and sat tight. When the wind unexpectedly backed through 180 degrees, the skipper sat in the cockpit from half midnight to half 3 in the morning listening to the radio whilst moorings broke and boats moved round the islands and bays to seek better shelter.
We are now due to leave tomorrow morning for Suworrow. Sadly some of our members are now no longer with us. Candela's family crew have returned to the States, and Hugh from Blue Flyer has had to fly to Australia for an operation; hopefully he will be back on his feet and return to the rally soon. But on the bright side, Maalmani has now caught up with us, and after successful repairs, Quasar V is also due to catch us up tomorrow and cross the start line with us. What happens thereafter is slightly uncertain. About 20 of us will rendezvous in Suworrow, whilst the rest will track further to the South and visit Raratonga. Hopefully we will see some of these boats in Niue, otherwise our next proper fleet rendezvous is in Tonga. But don't worry, I will keep you posted!
Best wishes to everyone; all well with us.
James, Chris, Elizabeth and Will
Yacht Cleone
Bora Bora