Kasuje - Skippers Log 8th March
Hi from Skipper Steve
It has been a few days since I last reported on our
exploits, from Forteleza in Brazil. The sailing has been mixed with some
stunning high speed moments interspersed with heavy rain, mixed winds and
confused seas. It is all down to the ITCZ or doldrums. An area where the two
great Atlantic weather systems meet canceling each other out and providing
unpredictable weather patterns. Mostly there is little wind and this mixed with
the high temperatures and heavy rain can give very uncomfortable conditions for
sailors. However this area appears to be behind us now as we have picked up the
Northern Hemisphere NE trade wind system and we have had almost 24 hours of near
perfect sailing. We currently have an eta at Tobago of the 11th where
unfortunately I have to jump ship, leaving the boys to take Kasuje to St
Lucia.
We made a 36 hour pit stop in Cayenne in French
Guyana, a town made famous to many of us by Steve McQueen and Dustin Hoffman in
the film Papillon. It was quite an experience not only getting there but
visiting the town itself. The approach is made through a 12 mile channel which
is constantly being dredged clear of silt by the French authorities. The sea is
a rich brown color, with the final 6 miles being up river between dense tropical
rain forests on either side. We made our approach in darkness and from the
sounds either side of us we could only wonder at the size of the beasties lying
in wait as we gingerly made our way up stream. After negotiating the channel the
next challenge was to find a berth or anchorage. Anchoring seemed out of the
question as the thick silt was almost liquid and would be very poor holding in
the strong current. Fortunately, just as we were beginning to despair a small
pontoon came in site with just enough room to moor Kasuje alongside. It was a
very welcome site and we made good and waited until dawn before exploring
further.
As daylight emerged it was apparent that our resting place was somewhat
isolated from the main town which was about 15km to the east. It seems we had
entered the country by the wrong tributary but were relieved when told that the
seaward approach to the town was probably untenable !!! So we kitted ourselves
out in true British exploring gear and set off for a very enjoyable day in
Cayenne. The town itself probably has not changed since the heavy days when it
was the staging post for the French penal system. It was decaying with little
work for the locals and surviving on EU subsidies.
We are now on the 4 day passage NW to Tobago where
I have to jump ship leaving the boys to take Kasuje on to St Lucia.
See you soon
Kind Regards Skipper Steve, Kevin, Dennis
and Colin
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