28 March 2010
For more than one reason we will not be sorry to weigh anchor tomorrow and leave Hiva Oa in our wake. Firstly the anchorage is subject to swell and there were just too many of us to be able to tuck in behind the breakwater for a calmer sea. As Voyageur's stern crashed up and down in the waves, I had to retreat to the cockpit to snatch what little sleep I could get. But we were told that it would be so. The concrete dinghy dock was downright dangerous and you had to carefully judge your leap onto its platform in timing with the surge of rushing water. At low water boats got sucked in underneath it and were prone to get trapped. Our new canvas cover was torn and the outboard narrowly escaped damage. In the anchorage at least three rally boats lost their stern anchors. Fortunately we did not lay one. This morning we had booked car hire to explore the island. Patrik and Lars from Ronja called to us, "Are you going to the supermarket? May we hitch a lift?" "Sure", we said, "jump aboard", and they duly hopped into the back of the pickup truck. As David was getting money out of the cash machine the boys were spotted by an officious French gendarme and ordered them out. He requested that we follow him to the police station, where upon David was charged and fined 8,100 French Pacific Francs which equates to 70GBP. We are feeling very aggrieved by this harsh treatment. Surely a warning would have sufficed. We gave a lift to the boys in good faith and when you see locals riding in the back of the pickups in town makes it all the more unfair. Our rally has given much support to the local economy. We have reprovisioned in the supermarkets, taken hire cars, eaten at local establishments. Not only will we be very glad to be on our way but we will not be back!
There is one road that takes you from the main town of Atuona in the south east corner to the furthermost village of Puama'u on the northwest side of the island. Once past the airstrip the concrete road became rough track as we jolted our way across the mountains plunging down through precipitous valleys. Everywhere was lush, lush, lush. We ate in the one and only restaurant at journey's end and then visited the marae site at Iipona. Situated in an area of quiet tropical rainforest surrounded by breadfruit trees, five stone tikis stood proud and tall, Takaii, 8ft high is the largest in the world. Towering over me it made me feel very small and vulnerable. Our tour finished with a visit to the graves of Paul Gaugin and Jaques Brel. Their simple graves were situated in a prime location high on the hill above Atuona overlooking the sea.