1 April 2010
The wonderful thing about sailing in French Polynesian waters is that you can day sail among and between the islands without having to do an overnight passage and of course it is our policy never to arrive or leave in the dark. We would never want to miss a daylight arrival at any one of these islands so spectacular is their topography. It is something that we anticipate with great excitement and infinite pleasure for nowhere else in the Pacific is landfall more dramatic. Perhaps it is because it reminds us so much of home but with any luck it will not be too long before that dream becomes a reality. Today was a perfect example of that feeling. Having spent three wonderful days and nights in Fatu Hiva we were once more ready to move on. The island of Tahuata, the smallest inhabited island of the archipelago, lay 37nm to the northwest. Voyageur absolutely leapt into action like a pedigree racehorse, once clear of the wind and wave effects that being in the lee of Fatu Hiva had created. These were absolutely the conditions where she excels, strong winds, big seas. We powered along often doing over eight knots under reefed main and genoa. With "A Lady" astern of us and trying hard to catch up we still had what I like to call our little trump card to play.... the mizzen sail. But it was not necessary. Within 5 hours we were sailing along the southern coast of Tahuata, rounding the wild and rugged landscape of Cape Tehopeotekeho, devoid of any form of greenery of which we are so used to seeing. Gradually as we made our way up the west coast the barrenness gave way to the familiar lush green slopes and as if someone had flicked a switch, so the wind was suddenly gone. With Voyageur's sails flapping and the huge Pacific Ocean swells left astern we were left slopping about. There was nothing for it but to fire up the engine and motor in to our chosen anchorage for the night, Baie Hanatefau, where we found several other rally boats already at anchor.
Susan Mackay