9 April 2010
Leaving Baie de Taiohae, it was not very long before we solved our watery problem. The seal at the base of the bow thruster was steadily oozing saltwater, then trickling down into the locker opposite the forward heads. Now until we get to Papeete and a lift out to replace the seal, we have to bail out every two hours as it collects. More of a nuisance than a real problem but a real relief to know the cause. We do not like sea water in our boat.
We motored five miles to the west along the south coast, to drop anchor in Anse Hakatea. It gets the nickname of Daniel's Bay. This is because the American TV Survivor series was filmed in the location. Daniel and his wife were persuaded to move from their home on the idyllic white beach to move to an adjoining bay. It is a lovely sheltered spot, one of the few anchorages relatively free from swell. The only thing you can get here are the occasional strong gusts coming down from the 488 meter high cliffs but today the winds were light. We were ashore by ten o'clock in company with Viveke, Patrik and Lars from Ronja, and on our way up to the waterfall two hours away.
David and I must be gluttons for punishment for we did this walk four years ago and it was very tough going indeed so slippery was the path. This time was a totally different experience. The terrain was easy going, so dry the ground and the rivers to cross much less deep. In fact it has been very noticeable how much less rain we have had. I remember Baie de Taiohae as being very much greener on our last visit here. Reaching the waterfall there was not the merest trickle from it but the pool was still deep enough for a swim. However seeing eels weaving amongst the rocks was enough to put the two young lads off from a dip. Back at the tiny settlement of Hakaui, we looked for Daniel's house. David and I had visited him in April 2006. He was 79 years old and had been living there for over 60years with his wife Antoinette then an invalid. He proudly showed his seven books put together over many years. In them he recorded all the yachts that came into the bay and passed by his house on the way to the waterfall. We left our own addition, at that time, Stella. The house was empty, now all boarded up. They had both since died, a tattered calendar hanging in the porch, the only reminder of a past life there. It stopped at the month of June 2006. Walking past his pamplemousse trees, one branch was laden with heavy fruit, so much that they rested on the corrugated roof of an adjoining shed.
My eyes were drawn to something close by and there to my astonishment was my plastic shoe or "jellie" as they are known. I had lost it in the surf as we launched our tender from the beach. It must have been washed ashore and someone perhaps Daniel himself had placed it there. It was amazing to come across it four years later! Back on board we had a refreshing swim and took a nap before preparing to leave this gem of a place before nightfall.
Our departure from the Marquesas was as dramatic as our landfall. The early evening sun cast wonderful shadows on the high sided cliffs as we exited the narrow entrance of Baie Taioa. In the distance we could clearly see the majestic spires on the island of Oa Pou to the south. Out itinerary had included a three day visit here but regretfully had to be abandoned when we heard that the harbor was being dredged. With all sails set we settled down for our first night at sea. We celebrated sundowners that night with mixed feelings. Sad to be leaving but yet at the same time ready to move and happy to be on the ocean once more.
Merci Beaucoup!
To everyone who writes to me on the website. I do enjoy recounting our travel experiences but it is time consuming. Therefore all the more rewarding and moral boosting to know that you are enjoying reading it. Thank you to one and all.
Susan Mackay