18 May 2010
Straight after breakfast David and I took the tender around the next bay. In spite of our reservations at the time, we think the new tender is a brilliant little craft. From Zodiac called Zoom it planes extremely well, better than our other one. We still hope to have that one repaired when we reach Oz however. David went off to the bank for US dollars for Niue, while I went off to buy our fresh fruits and vegetables for the next couple of weeks to come. Examining his passport the bank teller seemed to take more than a passing interest in David asking where he was from and where he was staying. Finally he asked if he could speak to him outside. He left his station behind the counter and once outside asked if David had a weapon to sell!!! When David politely declined he asked if any American yachts might have such a thing on board. We have very firm views about carrying weaponry aboard and it is not uncommon to be asked by customs but this is a new one on us.....
Been there, done it, got the t-shirt!
And we did buy a t-shirt. Why we would want to advertise the fact that we had been there goodness only knows for what a disappointing dining experience it was. Bloody Mary's restaurant in Bora Bora, patronised by the rich and famous has a big reputation but it was not the fine dining we had expected. A bill board at the entrance boasts of film stars and socialites who have graced its tables. It felt to us more like a fast food outlet. We were herded like cattle around a display table to choose our dish, the equivalent to choosing from a picture and the kind of thing you expect from a MacDonalds' not a renowned restaurant on French Polynesia's "jewel in the crown" island, Bora Bora. In this great barn of a place, we sat on hard wooden stools eating with cheap cutlery, from equally cheap china and drinking wine from very ordinary glasses. The presentation was not what one would have expected from the high prices we were paying. Even our waitress was not very friendly. For dessert I ordered the crème brulee. It came served on a wooden platter, the kind that are sold in cheap Chinese shops the world over. I suspect they survive on a reputation that may once have been worthy of merit. The glitterati are most welcome to the place. Our choice is still Raiatea Lodge.
Bora Bora Yacht Club was a real gem. Run by a young couple who took over the place one year ago, they had the misfortune to be badly damaged by a cyclone back in January of this year. But they are working hard trying to make it a success and had sold their boat to pay for the building works which were going on while we were there. There were good moorings, with water available from the dock. With our watermaker still causing some concern we filled our tank. I wished we could have stayed longer.
Susan Mackay