23 May 2010
We motored on throughout the day and into the night. Conditions were so calm we lunched at the cockpit table as if we were at anchor, unheard of during a sea passage. Taking two hours respite from the constant drone of the engine we enjoyed our sundowners and evening meal in peace. The day brought just one squall lasting only a few minutes and even then the wind did not rise above ten knots. We were however rewarded with a stunning rainbow which crept across the surface of the sea to come quite close to Voyageur. During our two months cruising in French Polynesia I cannot ever remember seeing so many rainbows, on an almost daily basis, often several in one day, occasionally doubles ones, once a triple one. Our eye caught the first real signs of chafe on the lower luff of the genoa where it had flogged against the shrouds. We will have to patch it at the first opportunity. We never suffered any chafe on our last voyage, there was always too much wind!
The Cook Islands lie 700nm to the northwest of Bora Bora. The fifteen islands and atolls are scattered over a staggering 1.83 million square miles of the South Pacific. Divided into the southern and northern groups we are at present heading in a northwesterly direction for Suwarrow, the most southerly of the northern group. David calculated 5 days covering 140nm a day but with the light winds we realised by day four that that was not attainable unless we gave up the unequal struggle and motorsailed. Not wishing another day and night at sea we did just that, still hoping that the wind might increase during the last remaining day. Suwarrow is nothing more than a solitary atoll, a nature reserve, with a temporary warden. It once was known as Suvarov after a Russian explorer who arrived there in the ship of that name. It was changed to Suwarrow to sound more in keeping with the Polynesian language. Accessible only by sea, it is rarely visited, except for the occasional passing yacht. So, what a great opportunity it is for us to visit and surely one not to be missed. We are just praying that the weather holds out for it is unsafe to enter the pass in anything but calm conditions. The pass also presents its challenges with strong tidal sets and many coral heads. We will have to have all our wits about us tomorrow for our midday arrival.....
Moby Mystique
For three consecutive nights now I have been aware, as I lean out from the cockpit to scan the horizon, of the most powerful pungent smell. A fishy, stale breath smell. It must surely be a whale in close proximity to the boat. I see and hear nothing except the sounds of the ocean. My travel guide tells me that pilot whales up to six metres in length are in the Cook Islands year round. In fact in 2001 the Cook Islands declared its territory a whale sanctuary. They must be very shy creatures for they always remain elusive to us during day light hours. But I am quite certain they are there. I can feel their presence, sense that they are with us on our journey. "Reveal yourselves to me so that I can marvel at your graceful movement through the water". "Come close", I plead, but not too close.....
Susan Mackay