Suwarrow is an uninhabited Atoll in the middle of nowhere. Group two of the World ARC fleet arrived to find the anchorage empty but we were soon joined by 4 other cruising yachts. We made the most of our three days there with a dinghy trip across the lagoon to visit Bird Island and pick up rubbish as we did two years ago, a beach party attended by the whole population (22 yachties) and lots of snorkelling and diving undeterred by the reef sharks that circled the anchorage. For our last night in Suwarrow we moved to the eastern anchorage where Peter introduced Mandy to night diving with a truly magical experience. We drifted among cathedral like 14 meter high towers of honeycomb coral lit by the full moon; it was like flying in a snow capped forest populated by fish. Even Peter with his experience of over 4000 dives found it staggeringly beautiful and very special, Mandy will never forget it especially the moment when we switched off our lights, to see the columns shimmering by moonlight. The local fish population was just as mesmerised by us and our lights; don’t think they get many visitors particularly after dark.