2 June 2010
There are two things that the Cook Islands and Niue have in common. First they are both independent nations but under free association with New Zealand which means that they get a lot of economic support. Second they have a shrinking population, the young people preferring to live and work in New Zealand. That is where the similarities end, for the islands could not be more different.
The entire land area of the Cook Islands could fit into Niue. That is not to say that Niue is big because your can drive around the island in one day which is what we did. Irene and Dick (Tucanon) came along too. They call Niue the "Rock of Polynesia", appropriately so as from the sea the island appears like a large flat lump of rock, the coastline indented by rugged cliffs, caves and chasms. The waters are spectacularly clear and we could see the bottom 15 metres down. Poisonous sea snakes abound but their mouths are too small to take a bite. David and I had toured around on our last trip so it was a case of revisiting some favourites and exploring a couple of new ones. It was amazing how much the vegetation had developed in four years after it had been stripped in the devastating cyclone of 2004.
The lunar landscape surrounding Togo Chasm was beginning to submerge under heavy growth of vine like plants, the roots taking hold wherever there was a crack in the rock. The chasm itself was impressive with thunderous seas from a strong easterly blow, breaking onto the rocks around us. We beat a hasty retreat. The little palm tree oasis had suffered from heavy rock fall, massive boulders barring our way to explore inland. Vaikona Chasm was next on our itinerary but we aborted it near the end as the terrain became too difficult and walking now for most of the morning we were looking for lunch. However all the cafe/bars marked on our tourist map had long since closed and we had to return to the capital, Alofi, having a snack at the yacht club.
We headed north in the afternoon intending to swim at Matapa Chasm but a toe in the water was enough. It was freezing. Limu pools nearby however was more appealing and we all had a dip there. Finally we explored Palaha caves, impressive for this island.
The biggest little yacht club in the world!
Our group were given a very warm welcome from Niue Yacht Club. It has moved on since 2006. Then, Commodore Keith ran the club from the driving seat of his car! There were no yachts, no premises but we were happy to become members of his virtual yacht club, dubbed the biggest little yacht club in the world. Now Jim and Mamata have the club house adjacent to their house and on our first night there they hosted a splendid barbaque and buffet dinner which we shared with the local Hash Harriers group. Suzana gave the customary vote of thanks on behalf of World Arc and presented a framed montage of all our boat names. Their motto is "Arrive as visitors - leave as friends" and that was certainly true of our experience.
To complete our Niue social experience the following evening we had a great party at the opening night of Jenna's restaurant with local musicians, dancers and the very best fire dancing display to date. It was his last performance, as he was leaving the island for New Zealand, a sad reflection of what is now happening there. They are only to receive financial help from New Zealand for just two more years then they are on their own so the future for the islanders does not look too bright. It is such a shame for they have come through so much to rebuild their lives and their homes since 2004 and the hospitality and friendship extended towards us was truly great.
Susan Mackay