6 June 2010
A very grand title indeed for such a poor country, but its traditions are rich. They wear the 'ta'ovala', a mat of pandanus secured around the waist with coconut fibre frequently worn over the 'tupenu' or wraparound skirt, (the south pacific equivalent to the Scottish kilt!) Alternatively, women might wear a 'kiekie', a decorative waistband worn over a dress or skirt. Loyalty to the royal family is shown by the wearing of such apparel and sets the Tongans apart from the rest of Pacific peoples. Fashioned from the pandanus leaf it comes in many shapes and sizes and from simple design to very intricate weaving but the basic style is the same. The yacht club laid on a barbecue evening and for the first time in three weeks group one and two got back together again.
David and I along with many other WARC yachts attended Sunday morning church service. The last time our planned visit had to be aborted when David had to spend the best part of the day helping another yacht. The skipper had left the generator running while ashore only to return to find the intake had been blocked with jellyfish which resulted in the exhaust imploding and letting water in up to the floorboards. So we always promised ourselves that were we to return we would not miss out on the Sunday service a second time. The singing was absolutely wonderful, the rich harmony of male and female voices resounding right to the very rooftops. It was lovely to see babies and small children as part of the congregation. Men and women dressed in their Sunday best were fanning themselves with locally made woven fans to keep cool. A huge sign read "Holy Year. 19th June 2009 to 19th June 2010. Do whatever He tells you"! It made us giggle (thankfully it was not my skipper it was referring to) and what is to happen after the 19th of this month I wonder! Altogether it was an experience which we will cherish and which will remain with us forever.....
Neiafu has not changed one iota in four years in fact we felt that the town had rather deteriorated. The anchorage was still teeming with jellyfish which meant we had to be constantly alert when running the generator. At least two rally boats had blocked intakes within a day of arriving. The litter was worse than I remembered but the friendliness of the Tongan people had not diminished. They are a proud, handsome race. Tongan society is very religious and dress is conservative. It is frowned upon to hold hands in public and I always take care to cover my shoulders and never wear too short shorts. Many businesses had closed down but Cindy of Tropical Tease, selling Tongan Dirt Shirts and polo and tee shirts customised with the boat names, was still going strong. We have of course ordered our 'Voyageur' ones.
Birthday Boys!
Two rally birthdays today, Donald from A Lady (fresh out of hospital from Rarotonga after a motor scooter accident) and Rui of Thor VI. David and I try so hard to stick to our two drink rule when aboard the other rally boats but fail frequently on many occasions. Tonight was yet another one, when 'A Lady' hosted a drinks party to celebrate Donald's birthday. It was great fun and along with champagne we were served a piece of the most delicious chocolate cake, made locally at the Crow's Nest Cafe complete with a smashed up motor scooter as decoration! A work of art. David and I put our joint literary skills to the test and composed a short poem for Donald. I think it went down well. Then off David and I went for dinner ashore at the Aquarium restaurant. We ate locally caught lobster served with a cream and whisky sauce, very reasonably priced and absolutely delicious.
We met Isikeli, a plantation owner and resident of Neifau, and after spending an hour talking to him we gained some insight into life as a Tongan citizen. On November 25th this year the Tongan people will vote and he left us in no doubt that he was hoping for democracy. He expressed little love for the royal family intimating that they had wealth beyond their means with the remainder of the people living in relative poverty which really does bear out with what we have seen in the short time that we have been here. Oh where have we seen and heard that before!
Susan Mackay