11 June 2010
The whole boat shook and woke both of us. David got up to investigate. The night was so still and calm that the reflection of the stars could be seen on the water's mirror like surface. I am convinced we had experienced an earth tremor. Two weeks ago we heard that there had been an earthquake in Vanuatu which will be our next destination after Fiji. Curiously four years ago within 24hours of leaving Vanuatu, exactly the same thing happened. These events are "part and parcel" of sailing across the Pacific Ocean and as ocean sailors we know the risks and therefore must accept them.
Swanning it on Tonga!!
David and I have always thought of Swans as fast but not exactly comfortable racing yachts. However having been invited aboard Wild Tigris, at 76ft the biggest boat on the rally, our views have somewhat changed. Casey proudly showed us around this tardis of a yacht. Now 20 years old, her woodwork was still beautiful. She sleeps up to ten in comfortable cabins too numerous to mention, and with a workshop, which would be the envy of many a handyman skipper, especially my David. We were hugely impressed. We were lying quietly at anchor off the beach of Nuku, otherwise known as "Picnic Island", when Heidi and Casey came over with their dinner invitation. Sophie is chef and Sean the skipper. My meagre offering of spaghetti bolognaise was welcomed as Heidi does not do fish and Sophie's salmon was a treat for us as we do not fish. It made such a welcome change to our daily diet of meat. It was lovely evening, lovely to be welcomed aboard, lovely to see aboard their lovely boat......
Cruising around the island group of Vava'u is all about eyeball navigation. Our C Map charts are way "off the mark" and more often than not place our little ship on the land! David posts me up at Voyageur's bow to look ahead for any change in the colour of the water. Meanwhile, when passing a headland or island David attempts to guess our true position against the inaccurate electronic track. There are lots of rocks and reefs to avoid but so long as you keep a good lookout there is no problem. On approach to our chosen anchorage the shore shelves steeply away from a white sand beach so the trick is to try and get as close in as you dare and aim to plonk the anchor down in a patch of sand. But invariably the chain will catch on a coral head and grunt and grind. When we first heard this, it would have us up at the bow anxiously looking over but we have got so used to it that now we rarely stir. Experience also tells us that if your chosen anchorage is too pretty, then there will be many boats. Then the anchoring space is compromised and swinging room limited but there will be lots of convivial company with which to share your sun downer or dinner. We all have to run our generators or engines to charge the boat's batteries so with these things in mind you are faced with the choice of either being at peace, with just the noises of nightfall in the forest to keep you company or the human sounds that go on roundabout in a crowded anchorage. Take your pick. We are happy to do either.
Nights are cooler now. There is something very comforting when you reach for a sheet to cocoon yourself within.
Susan Mackay