6 July 2010
Ugh! To go out slap bang into a force six gusting seven is not my idea of fun. Having settled our bills with Baobob Marine for the generator repair we cast off the mooring lines at 9.15am. The wind even then was blowing 20 to 25knots but the water inside the reef was as flat as a pancake. We realised what great protection the marina at Port Denerau gave, for it had been hot and still when we left. Now as we exited the Navulo Pass once more we were straight out into a rough old sea. With just half the genoa and mizzen out we were still averaging 8knots. My sea legs had deserted me and I had not had the foresight to take a Stugeron anti sea sickness pill. Oh, how I struggled to make our evening meal but got there in the end. I always do. I actually feel the worse for wear if I do not eat. I clawed my way up and down from galley to cockpit to galley at regular five minute intervals, Voyageur pitching and rolling in the beam on seas. Feeling sorry for me David headed a little more downwind to make my life below easier. Oh the joys of ocean sailing!
The other rally boats had crossed the start line at 11am. Through the binoculars we could see all the masts and sails assembling and we couldn't help but be very grateful that we were not a part of the scrum, racing them out through the reef. We had had the luxury of going through the most straightforward and widest pass from the mainland. It also put us well to port of their course with the result that we did not see another set of lights all night. We could relax. Thankfully the winds began to calm and come the morning typically there was not enough! Oh, it was lovely though. We pottered along under poled out genoa and mizzen under calm seas and sunny skies. Not having been at the start line we were under no pressure, not a sail in sight. All we had to do was arrive in Tanna, one of the most southernmost of the Vanuatu group of islands in three days time, in daylight of course, and in time for the WARC programme of events.
A night at the opera....
Our second night at sea could not have been more different from the first. A night so soft and warm. Voyageur waltzed over the waves in a gentle 10knots of breeze. We were only doing 4.5knots but I could not have cared less. Planet Venus shone its path of light across the water towards us. To turn the ignition switch and have the engine roar into life would have broken the spell of what was a most magical night. I reached for my I pod and revelled in some opera. I could have been up there among the stars, it was quite heavenly. It is during these special moments that I want to be out here on the ocean forever. Land is but a mere distraction.
Beating a path towards Tanna
The wind started to fill in by the afternoon of day two. With all sails up and flat seas and a favourable current we were making real progress. If this keeps up overnight I thought, this is going to be great fun. But the wind increased to gusts of 23knots. Normally that would leave us and Voyageur quite unfazed and we would be revelling in her fast and easy motion. But we are on the ocean and it is amazing how quickly the seas can build. Downwind we would barely notice it but unusually it came from the south putting the wind forward of the beam. We started to pound into the wind and the waves. No operatics for me tonight! We took it in turns to sit huddled in the cockpit to keep dry from the rain squalls and had to remain constantly alert to the sudden wind shifts and strengths that featured throughout a long blustery night. Dawn came and with it the sight of a few other WARC yacht sails dotted around the horizon. Landfall couldn't come quick enough for us. We were tired, and just wanted to get there, to rest and recover. It is amazing how quickly one can tire after just one long night of difficult sailing conditions. But recover we did for within a few hours we were ashore, had cleared customs and booked a tour later on that day to the active volcano on Mount Yasur. We dashed back to Voyageur for an early lunch, a restorative afternoon nap and a visit from George, the immigration official. He relieved me of two papaya and half a lime which was very fair considering I had enough fresh fruits and vegetables to feed us for a week. He was only interested in things that came from Fiji, Australia and New Zealand imported goods deemed to be safe. I am always careful to wash my fruit and vegetables as soon as they come aboard but he was after all only doing his job. Their greatest fear is the introduction of the rhinocerous beetle. But I still cannot quite figure out why we put our signature to a document that says that we will not bring any fruits or vegetables ashore only to have them removed and taken ashore.
Susan Mackay