5 August 2010
I refer to the passage we have just completed taking us through the Hinchinbrook Channel, and 24 hours which have been quite memorable in more ways than one. We weighed anchor from Magnetic Island at 6.15am yesterday having slept like babes, not a breath of wind overnight. Typical! Our dawn departure rewarded us with a last dazzling whale display. The first was a humpback beating, thrashing the water with its great fluke, time and time and time again. David caught it on camera. It was not long before we spotted a mother and calf, simultaneously rising up vertically out of the sea, her great white underbelly appearing first, a pirouette, before finally revealing her huge curved black back as she went crashing back down, sending up a giant plume of sea and spray. "Look", she was saying to him, "this is how it's done. It's easy!" It was SPECTACULAR and served as an encore for our departure from their winter cruising grounds. Townsville is the limit of their northern migration before their return to Antarctica in October.
We sailed under cloudless skies under poled out genoa and mizzen, past Palm Island, which we had been advised to give a wide berth. Sadly there were reports of unrest from the local aboriginal population. Now, with every mile that we cover heading north, the weather becomes sunnier and warmer, Queensland at last living up to its reputation of the "Sunshine State". With Cairns just 175nm away we will once more luxuriate in a tropical climate. The approach to Hinchinbrook Channel required for the most careful and accurate navigation. Peter sat at the chart table watching our track, I called out the soundings, while David sat at the helm steering towards the leading lights and marks. With just 0.9metres under the keel at its shallowest point we crept our way in, skirting along the bulk sugar conveyor wharf which projects 3nm out into the southern approaches. Once past the Lucinda jetty where the northbound ships load their cargoes of sugar, the depths increased to 15metres enabling us all to relax a little and enjoy the magnificent scenery as we swept past the mangrove forests fringing the entrance to Bluff Creek, under the imposing backdrop of Mount Straloch. 26nm in length, this natural, calm and protected waterway separates lofty Hinchinbrook Island from the mainland. It put us in mind of the Panama Canal but devoid of any shipping or settlements.
The whole island of Hinchinbrook is a national park, and consists of towering alpine peaks, lush tropical rainforest on the lower slopes with thick mangroves lining the shores. 8nm further into the channel we arrived at our chosen overnight anchorage off tiny Haycock Island, in plenty of time for sundowners. We drank in the wonderful views sharing this lovely tranquil spot with just one other yacht. Surrounded on all sides by dense mangroves it was all so utterly peaceful, but we were sharing our idyllic anchorage with one of Australia's deadliest creatures. Estuarine crocodiles or "salties" are they are commonly known, reside amongst these river estuaries and mangroves, so when it was time to turn in for the night we closed up our companionway hatch, just to be on the safe side!
Morning came and with it infinite stillness. Not a ripple to break the mirror calm surface, not a croc in sight. We glided up past the many inlets and river creeks that feed into the main channel, seeing nothing but the occasional local aluminium fishing smack. Mount Bowen at 1142metres the highest peak on the island was shrouded in cloud and mist but the sun shone hotly down on us at sea level. We weaved our way around the many port and starboard navigational buoys marking the sand spits and shoal areas. By late morning it was with real regret that our remarkable passage through this wilderness world was at its conclusion as we cleared the northern end off the small township of Cardwell.
Now out into Rockingham Bay we laid a course for Dunk Island arriving in the early afternoon and anchoring off its lovely sand spit. Our transit through this remarkable piece of North Queensland coast did require a certain degree of concentration but we were so glad we made the effort for the whole experience has been one which will remain with us all forever.....
Susan Mackay