We are due in Shelter Bay marina, at the entrance to the Panama canal on the 26 th. The passage is about 70 miles, so we decided to break it up by stopping off in Portobello, some 50 miles distant. Leaving the beautiful, unspoilt San Blas islands and the charming Kuna inhabitants was not easy. In fact, it appears that many cruisers stay in the islands for extended periods, and why not. The crystal clear waters, waving palm trees and gorgeous white beaches make this area a true, tropical paradise. The World ARC folks did a great job bringing us here and giving us the time we needed to savoir the various anchorages.
As we neared Portobello we caught up with "Beatoo". They decided to follow us into the bay and stay the night. The crew of four came over to Sapphire for drinks and stayed for a couple of hours. After dinner, the two young lads in their crew came by and picked up Gavin. Off they went to explore the town.
Portobello isn't much of a place, but in the 17th century it was the main transit port for the treasures the Spanish were taking out of South America and shipping home. The town sits at the top of a large bay and was protected by 3 forts, two of which remain in reasonable state of preservation. Given the concentration of wealth in one small location, it's not surprising that many attacks were mounted on it. The pirate Henry Morgan sacked it, as did Sir Francis Drake, who died and was buried here. A couple of Royal Navy admirals also gave it a bashing in the 18th century. The Spanish finally gave up trans-shipping across the Panama Isthmus and took the long way home around the Horn.
Next day we explored the customs house (which is well preserved) and the 2 forts, with their cannons (though rusting) still in place. In the evening we visited a bar/restaurant called Captain Jack's, which Gavin and his pals had discovered the night before. It's run by an American single-handed sailor, probably a previous hippie, who has decided to come ashore. We met a couple of single handlers (one Irish, one English) who appeared to be stranded in Portobello. A fine night was had by all.
Next day we left for Shelter Bay and had a rollicking run in 35 kt winds and large waves. Got to our destination around two, with gusts up to 45 kts, having threaded our way through the myriad of ships which were moored off, waiting their time to enter the canal. Soon we were moored up in the marina, greeted by the World ARC team, whom we were delighted to see. Sort of strange to be in a marina again after so much time in remote areas on anchor. Next adventure will be the passage through the canal, which we start on the 29th.