Milanto - Log Day 17. The finish.
Day 17.
The Beginning of the End, The End and the End of the Beginning.
Last night the end was in sight. We knew that at the first light of the morning, if we hadn't already crossed the finishing line, it would be there, in clear view. We would have done it. We would have sailed across the Atlantic, in a Blue Water Ocean race and unless something momentous broke, we should have done rather well, even if we said so ourselves. But then we hadn't counted on the 'welcoming' night-time Caribbean weather.
The cut and thrust of races such as this, is played out over hundreds of miles. We, on the Great Circle, in the central zone, were racing to the finishing line, as were those in the north and those in the south, each area having its own microclimate of wind and squalls. By late afternoon we felt that we had rather lucked out in our space and were steaming along on white sails (ie no spinnaker) doing speeds of up to 13 knots in the gusts. The banter had started, Vale was receiving emails from various sources asking what we are using to go so fast - such is the technology that everyone can monitor each other's performance.
So on that dog day afternoon, with just sandy beach and rum punch in our heads, we found ourselves all up top, looking back at what had been an unforgettable two weeks of ups and downs (and side to sides).
For those who have read this blog and have perhaps thought about taking part in a future ARC, I thought it might be useful to provide a very quick additional insight. Having followed the preparations and progress of the various yachts who have taken part in this Rally, it is clear to me now that there are probably just three broad categories of participant.
Firstly though there are the two distinct elements, those who race, and those who simply travel over, or cruise and you need to chose which suits you best.
But within both, there are the following:
Firstly the (largely) testosterone crewed (of in fact either gender) rockets, or 'would be' rockets, which will stop at nothing to beat the next boat. Buyer beware. Expect lashings at dawn, Chinese burns, on going barks and high calorie, low desirability fodder. Often seen with matching glasses and jackets. Keen rating: 10/10.
Secondly the would be racers with less experienced crew. As above but without lashings, often includes good food. Most often seen in inadequate, mismatched sailing/ skiing/ cycling gear. Some without glasses / hats. Keen rating: 10/10 (on most days).
Thirdly: party people. Come in variety of flavours. Most often seen having too good a time in the eyes of above. Keen rating: 10/10 (especially post happy hour)
Clearly we fall into the second category and I would recommend it wholeheartedly, (but do know that an element of relentless endurance is a feature of such a crossing, it is character building stuff and makes the trip, but...). I would especially steer you to a trip on Milanto under the stewardship of Valerio.
As it happens the final hours of darkness were a nightmare. Winds in the back-to-back squalls topped 30 knots consistently over a period of around 4 hours. I have described the consequences of such weather on previous entries, so will leave you to scroll back, or simply to imagine. This last evening features highly on the low lights listings from the crew, which is telling.
So looking back on the best bits and those less good bits. A straw poll of the highs and lows is pretty consistent across everyone. In short, and as you can imagine, the nights of terrible weather are the feature that people really didn't like. I would add to this (because I can), that I missed my wife (and family) more than I had banked on (I add this firstly because I am hoping that she will read it and that it will go in someway to demonstrate my gratitude to her for standing in for the 3 weeks I have been away, and secondly because it is true.) As for the highs? Well there are too many to list, but amongst those voiced are: the sense of achievement, the wonder of the isolation and the breath taking colours. But the most commonly put forward is the sheer and total joy and exhilaration of tearing down the face of a 4m wave and holding on for dear life (only topped if the first is followed by a second/ third). I would again add to this (and the crew is all in agreement here), a huge multi award winning gold star rating for both Milanto and The Vale and Keith show. All three have shown huge patience and kindness to a group of very inexperienced (at times frustratingly so!) crew, we have all felt safe in their hands. Vale's patience, humour and tenacity knows no bounds, and I know that there is no other person with whom any of us would have wanted to take this trip.
And now? Well now we will be heading for the beach to do things they do in St Lucia. I am looking forward to taking a well-earned swim and to sip on a fruit punch.
Then later, Vale, and the Milanto pose, aka Keith, Baldem, Steve, Marie, Michael, Josh and Angus will be: "Biggin' it up large, St Lucia style".
Tomorrow I head for the airport to catch my evening flight, to undo in 8 hours, what it has taken us 15 hard, relentless and at times very unforgiving days to achieve. I anticipate sleeping from the moment I get into the plane.
But for here and for now, my work is done.
So as we say in St Lucia: na alé.
This is me, Angus Gardner, signing off from St Lucia.