Up river, some thirty miles away from Figueira da Foz, is the delightful old city of Coimbra, home to the oldest university in Portugal and one of the oldest in the world.
Coimbra is built on a hillside and, with its narrow streets and courtyards linked by twisting stairs and alleyways; it is a rewarding place in which to wander and enjoy the sights and atmosphere of old Portugal. For those looking for an authentic taste of Portugal, the best places to stop for lunch are tucked away in hidden streets where only the most adventurous will find them. The flourishing university is housed in an old royal palace, and boasts a superbly decorated library with carved shelves and ornately painted ceilings, which is open for public viewing.
The Rally’s visit to Coimbra is on occasion lucky enough to coincide with the famous Medieval Fair that takes place in the old Cathedral Square. As one enters the cobbled, wonky square it is like going back in time, full of tents and wooden structures with merchants selling their wares all in Medieval dress. Roasted suckling pig; fresh corn bread; sweet bread desserts; clay pots of local wine; sardines; flower headdresses; tin utensils; swords; Armour – and the list goes on. Everyday doctors, lawyers, accountants, bank clerks from Coimbra, dress up in Medieval clothing and enjoy celebrating the history of the oldest part of their City. In the centre of the square a sword fight is taking place, with spectators surrounding the knights. The village idiot on a donkey with his keeper blowing a conch shell parades through the crowd and a leper begs for money in rags. Just closing your eyes and breathing in the smells and sounds, takes you right back to your history lessons at school.
Rally crews enjoy a guided tour of the University and its Library followed by free time to explore the myriad of streets in the town.
A lovely place to stop on the way back to Figueira from Coimbra is the stunning Castle of Montemor, perched on a hill overlooking acres of rice fields. This peaceful haven houses an 11th Century church with a wooden roof and ceiling and simple twisted stone columns, and is a lovely place for a late afternoon drink as the sun goes down over the endless rice fields surrounding the Castle.
Another enjoyable way of returning to Figuera da Foz from Coimbra is to take the train, which travels at a very gentle pace along a very different route to the road, allowing passengers to catch a view of Portugal that is not spoilt by the modern developments that accompany the construction of major roads. The glimpses of small farms and cottages give an insight into a very different way of life.
www.portugal-info.net/costaprata/coimbra.htm